Landscaping for Wildlife

Landscaping to attract wildlife is gardening at its very best.  Choosing plants native to the geographic area where you live  almost always  guarantees success.  Natives require less care and general maintenance, leaving more time for the garden to be enjoyed.  Wildlife benefits from the food, shelter, and nesting places  that result from this type of gardening.

The more thought you put into planning your garden, the better the outcome will be.  Consider the size of your property and the exposure to light and direction.  Size is especially important when you are planning to add large trees or shrubs. landscaping-for-wildlife.html#more-7646″ class=”more-link”>(more…)

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Friday, July 18th, 2008

June Landscaping Tips Butterflies And Gardens Special To The Online Edition

Celebrate summer by welcoming butterflies into your garden. are different from many other “theme” gardens. To be successful, the garden not only needs to have a that works with the surrounding home and landscape, but it needs to perform a very specific task. Attracting butterflies may seem fairly straightforward, but you cannot assume all butterflies are attracted to all flowers.

Butterflies are beautiful, somewhat ethereal creatures whose and graceful add a sense of wonder to any garden planting

Butterflies have plant preferences: There are literally thousands of , and each species tends to have a of plants as source. When selecting for a , it is also important to remember that a butterfly goes through four life cycles, with one set of for the larval stage and another type of food once the butterfly emerges from the chrysalis.

The for butterflies include , perennials, wildflowers, , shrubs and trees. and tender known to attract many include zinnias, white alyssum, marigolds, lantana, cosmos, nicotiana, petunias, ageratum, fuchsia, snapdragons and sunflowers. Herbs and wildflowers that attract butterflies include chives and other alliums, , spearmint, Anaphalis, , Verbena, dandelions, clover, Queen Anne’s Lace, , goldenrod and thistle.

for include daisies, Phlox, Aster, Liatris, Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Eupatorium, Achillea, Aubretia, , Echinops, Limonium, Sedum, Phystostegia, Scabiosa, Coreopsis, Hemerocallis, Heuchera, Lilium, Lythrum, Lavandula, Myosotis and Penstemon. Shrubs, vines and trees for include Abelia, Aesculus, Aruncus, , Clethra, Crataegus, , Lonicera, Malus, Prunus, Ribes, Salix, Spirea, Syringa, Vaccinium and Wisteria.

Design help: If a is to be created as part of an older, established , look for a site that offers shelter—an overgrown fence, a clump of trees, the base of a sloping lot, or a rocky outcropping with a flat, grassy spot nearby. and several hours of sun would complete the picture—minus only the butterfly-attracting .

Call it serendipity, but the preferred style of planting for design purposes—starting with low edging and gradually working up, level by level, to the tallest —is also one of the best arrangements for a . This is not only because it makes it easier for the butterflies to identify their favorite nectar-producing when they are clearly visible, but the taller offer shelter from both wind and predators.

The popular concept of a mixed border, combining , , , roses, , vines and ornamental trees, all underplanted with bulbs, will provide a long bloom season as well as a variety of food sources and forms of shelter that will attract a large assortment of butterflies over a long period.

Other design guidelines: Although some theme gardens need meticulous care and a neat, sometimes formal appearance to create the intended ambience, butterflies like their to be a little messy. Rocky paths muddied by a sprinkler or parts of the garden where water pools on flat rocks will attract many like a luxury spa attracts movie stars. Research indicates that minerals released through the water’s evaporation process, primarily sodium, may play a vital part in the mating habits of butterflies. For this reason, some experts recommend putting small salt licks in a .

Areas in or around the garden where grass is allowed to grow long can act as a shelter and, for some species, a place to lay their eggs. If you can live with a section of your garden that is somewhat overgrown with , wildflowers, trees and , you will probably find more butterflies in this little wilderness than among carefully tended flower beds

Like , there are woodland butterfly species and those that prefer a sunny spot. Even sun-loving butterflies will appreciate the presence of a shaded shelter.

Butterflies have a powerful sense of smell. Much like dogs, the scents that they find attractive aren’t always scents the human population likes to encourage. Rotting fruits and vegetables are gourmet treats for some butterflies, while others are drawn to the more pleasant aromas of clover or wild violets.

Pesticides and herbicides should be avoided, whenever possible, because in almost every stage of life butterflies are extremely vulnerable to such toxins.

Some butterflies stay around for winter: Not many butterflies overwinter in the extreme climates of the Midwest, but those that do ( sometimes called “hibernators” ) will also benefit from winter shelter—mounds of ivy growing over old tree stumps, piles of logs or large, dead tree branches, a stack of old bricks or chunks of concrete.

Some butterflies will hibernate in old trees, while others will welcome the presence of specially designed “butterfly houses” as winter shelter. Winter or summer, butterflies need protection from the wind and a place where the sun will be reflected, somewhere safe from predators—including the trampling feet of children.

Types of butterflies: Monarch butterflies are usually a common sight in Illinois. Other likely candidates include Cabbage White butterflies, Clouded Sulphur, Orange Sulphur, Eastern-Tailed Blue, Meadow Fritillary, Pearl Crescent, Viceroy, Great Spangled Fritillary, Summer Azure, Question Mark, Least Skipper, European Skipper, and the Dion Skipper.

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Wednesday, June 11th, 2008

Before You Landscape Have A Plan

If you’re thinking about upping the of your house or redoing the for a big event, here are some landscaping ideas from Peggy . She’s a member of the of Landscape Designers and owner of Heart’s Ease and Garden Design in the Toano area of James City County.

Show off the house. Make the front door the from the street. “Frame” the house with the — don’t obscure it.

Do it stylishly. Consider the architecture and of the house — formal, cottage, contemporary, etc. — when selecting plants to create a “style” appropriate to the setting.

Think about color. Select and flowers that echo the paint or on the house. Fill large containers on the porch or steps with that repeat the front door color for a designer look.

Big is best. Create wide, sweeping, curved bed lines in proportion to the size and scale of the house. Bigger is usually better.

Space properly. Plant shrubs at least 3 to 4 feet away from the foundation of the house and allow enough room between for them to reach their . Read carefully! Don’t overplant — will grow!

Stagger sizes. Plant dwarf, slow-growing or low-growing under windows; use taller plantings at corners or along . Use pyramidal carefully as accents.

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Saturday, May 31st, 2008

Nematodes, Lack Of Pollination May Hamper Squash Growth

Question: Each year my squash blooms prolifically but seldom produce any squash to eat. What am I doing wrong ?

Answer: Squash plants produce male and female . For fruit to set, pollen must be transferred from the male to the female bloom. Pollinating insects, mostly bees, carry out this important job resulting in fresh squash for the kitchen. When treating the garden for insects and diseases, spray or dust in the to avoid killing the bees.

Another possible cause of squash not is the possibility of nematode infestation. Check roots for of nematodes.

Question: What is the web-like substance on many trees on the ?

Answer: What you are seeing is tent caterpillars. These caterpillars form webs that cover the branches of the trees while eating the foliage. The damage is minimal but unsightly. If you find it necessary, spray with or .

Question: Why do the that I buy need water three times a day ? Answer: A plant growing naturally of its own accord produces top growth in to its roots, but flowers grown in greenhouses are products of a totally unnatural situation. They get all the sunlight, humidity, water and fertilizer they ever want so they grow many more flowers, leaves and stems than their roots could support if they weren’t so pampered. When you plant these pampered in the ground, you soon discover you’ve taken home a pack of water .

You can avoid this problem by doing two things: First, never buy already in bloom. Buy healthy but less advanced . Second, if someone gives you water , remove all the flowers and about half of the foliage. Then plant. Within two weeks, your will be back in balance. Plus, they will bloom much longer and fuller than coddled greenhouse .

Tip: For relief from a , cut a of garlic and press the cut side against the sting for instant relief, according to the Garlic .

Send your gardening and landscaping questions and tips to Washington County , 2536 N McConnell Ave., Fayetteville, AR 72704. You may also call 444-1755 for answers to your questions.

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Monday, May 26th, 2008

Gimme Shelter- Bloomin’ Summer: Get Landscaping Started Now

Q: Last summer, the terrible August heat sapped the color right out of our garden. This year, I’d like to make sure we have some colorful blooms around. When should I start thinking about planting summer bulbs? Garden Landscaping And what are some good summer bulb choices?

A:To ensure great color in your garden in the heat of summer, you’ll need to think about planting your summer bulbs now. Summer bulbs can provide beautiful once your roses and other spring flowers have lost their luster. Also, most of these bulbs will bloom late into the fall Garden Landscaping, giving your asters and chrysanthemums some company.

However, given the cold temperatures we’ve had this spring, the timing can be a little tricky. That’s because summer bulbs need to be planted after all danger of frost has passed. Most folks start planting them at the end of April, but if we get a sudden May frost, you’ll lose them. Even if the outside temperature is warm, the ground can still be cold, and if these colder temperatures persist there’s a chance of a sudden cold snap in May. With summer bulbs it’s best not to jump the gun: keep your bulbs in the fridge until you’re pretty sure those cold nights are past us.

Popular bulbs include gladiolas, dahlias, and lilies. Glads are very popular because they’re tall-stemmed, good for cut flowers, provide a good back-boarder for your garden because they’re so tall, Garden and come in vivid colors. They’re also a favorite of . Dahlias, too, provide marvelous color and make great cut flowers.

And lilies, like the popular orange tigers and stargazers, are sturdy plants that can grow in a variety of soils. If you get past the danger of frost, you can expect beautiful to appear in late June or July, and they’ll stick around through August, September, and even October.

Keep in mind, though, the majority of summer bulbs will not over-winter here, so you’ll need to treat them as and be prepared to plant them all over again next spring.

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Friday, April 25th, 2008

Proper Landscaping Adds Value

Take a good look at the front of your house. Cross the street if you have to and take a look again.

Does the landscaping around it compliment it? should make your house attractive and add value to it.

The front of your house is very public as it is viewed by passing cars and pedestrians.

The front entrance should be inviting and welcome visitors but not detract from the architecture of the house.

The house should be framed with trees. A large house needs a large frame created by using larger trees (, Linden, Green Ash, Spruce or Pine.)

But a small, one story house should be framed with small to medium trees (flowering crabapples, mountain ash, Pool amur maple) unless a large tree is needed for shade.

Larger shade trees can be used in the to frame the house from behind.

You can make a house look lower and wider by extending the foundation planting on the corners and arcing into the foreground.

These wing-like plantings serve to funnel the view from the street toward the house and center it on the front door. This is very useful in two storey buildings.

Use taller plants towards the corners of the house. at the corner locations should not be higher than two-thirds the distance from the ground to the eave.

Lower shrubs should be planted towards the front door, Pool Landscaping and should not be higher than 1/4 to 1/3 the distance from the ground to the eave. This leads the viewer’s eye in a definite direction – towards the front door.

Make the foundation planting wide enough, at least 122 centimetres wide, to make a bold statement of . The lines can be either straight or curved.

If setting out a curve, use a garden hose to play around with the curve, make sure it is bold – not wiggly.

The should be planted at least 45 cm from the foundation and not directly beneath the eaves, otherwise they will not receive adequate rainfall and snow cover.

Take time to research the mature height and spread of the you have selected.

I think the most common mistake I see are evergreens that have overgrown upwards and outwards beside a one story house.

Some of those have a spread of 213 cm. Sidewalk?

What sidewalk? There are excellent to consider when it comes to planting in small areas.

For example, the dwarf globe cedar Hetz Midget reaches a of 61 cm x 61 cm whereas, the globe cedar grows 152 cm x 152 cm. Make sure you research the mature sizes before planting.

I know everyone would like an instant garden but have patience, fill in the bare spots with a few while you are waiting for things to fill in.

Keeping it simple is the best rule.

Larger groups of the same plant make that plant more noticeable rather than a collection of one of a kinds.

Use specimen sparingly.

A specimen has a unique shape or colour. If you have too many your eye doesn’t know where to look.

A specimen near the front door will define the entryway and give it an added .

Make life easier for yourself and use groups of with similar growing conditions.

For example, rhododendrons, and hosta all prefer a moist well-drained soil in a shaded location.

Have a mix of both evergreen and deciduous for interest all year long.

Try to use that provide more than one season of interest.

One of my favourites is the Bridal Wreath spirea with its arching white flowers in spring and brilliant fall colour.

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Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008

Looking ahead with diligence

There are some spinoffs, not least the end-of-season cutback and bulb planting preparations.
A wide variety of bulbs is now available at nurseries and plant outlets.
Predictably, the better quality ones come at a price.
This season I have opted for a bulk mix of daffodil bulbs plus some daffs and hyacinths of premium quality.
The latter will be planted in pots where I can enjoy them from windows during the cold spring months; the others will find homes under trees and in areas where perennials are slow to gain height.
Thus the bulb flowering will be over before crowding becomes problematic.
Marking bulbs, especially in worked beds, is essential if you are anything like me. I periodically dig them up during the summer months despite making stern mental notes before weeding.
I have abandoned plastic markers because they tend to become brittle then snap and reverted to small wooden stakes, which I can push (or hammer) well into the ground.
Plastic bulb holders that contain plantings and are suitable for clump displays are another option.
If you are planning to plant bulbs in pots its a good idea to estimate how many you will need for each container.
I favour more than less from a display perspective. You can fringe your pot with smaller bulbs and plant larger varieties in the centre.
Make sure that the pots drainage holes are clear of debris before adding bulb mix culture: good preparation will pay dividends.
After planting I position my pots in the garden so that the are subject to autumn and winter temperatures. This way I can forget about them until spring rolls around and I want splashes of colour in key areas.
Autumn are now coming on stream think wallflowers, stocks and a good selection of perennial violas for early spring colour.
Lavenders that are past their best need to be cut back now. If you leave it until spring you run the risk of either having plants damaged by frost or removing new-growth flower spikes.
A slow-release fertiliser, especially for potted specimens, is a good plan.
The will also benefit from a clean up and, while the soil is relatively easy to work, a quick fork over now will save a lot of work in spring.
Cabbage, cauli and other brassicas are available, and broad beans and perpetual silver-beet can be planted any time from now on.
The lawns here are still patchy after a prolonged dry summer but heavy dews and some rain have seen a return to a semblance of green. A light dressing of lawn fertiliser should help things along while there is still some heat in the sun.
Why do I know I will regret this diligence come spring.

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Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Sorting out autumnal problems in the garden

The excellent summer we have had has given us great gardens, being one of the best years for tomatoes, cucumbers, capsicums, flowers, the list goes on. Good growing times also means an abundance of insect pests, such as whitefly, leaf hoppers, caterpillars, the list goes on.
Now we have reached a seasonal change not only can we enjoy a bountiful harvest but we may have a big insect pest problem to boot.
Pest insects breed very quickly, with females laying a few to several hundred eggs during their short lives. When one starts off in spring and the insect populations are beginning for the new season, it is a relatively simple matter to use natural controls to keep the populations low.
When a whitefly flits around newly planted tomatoes in the spring, there will be many not seen.
Ignore the sighting and a week or two later there will be a few more. If the potential problem is ignored, within another few weeks it will be much more difficult to control.
On the other hand, some gardeners take the first sighting as a warning and act on it. But even these gardeners can fall foul of a major problem looming, invasions of insect pests from other non-treated areas of the garden or in many cases from garden next door.
No matter whether its whitefly or any other insect pest, a good summer will allow massive insect populations to build and then invade your preferred plants as their previous host become over-populated or destroyed.
Keep knocking down as many of the pests as possible. The fewer pests to winter over, the fewer problems at the beginning of next season.
Two natural products combined and sprayed just on dusk will help reduce the problems, now and in the future. They are Neem Tree Oil with Key Pyrethrum added.
(You can include Raingard with them for a longer control residual.) Another excellent method of upsetting insect pests is the hose if watering by hand.
I remember as a child watching gardeners watering their gardens late in the day, not only would they moisten the soil but often would turn the nozzle of their hose to a jet and blast the foliage of their .
This simple method would wash many insect pests off the on to the ground where they would either drown or be unable to get back up on to their host .
Watering each evening by hand is a great time to check for possible problems, which would not be so noticeable otherwise. A combination of spraying and water jetting will keep insect populations down. Use the spray products mentioned above, late in the day after the garden has been watered with a hand-held wand. Only water the for the next couple of days then on the third day blast the foliage of the with a jet strong enough to wash off many insect pests but not strong enough to damage the . Repeat this for the following three days then spray with the products on the seventh evening.
Autumn is also the time when plant diseases come to the fore.
Black spot, rust and mildews abound on such as roses and this is part of nature and the natural cycle for older and deciduous . They are finishing for the year and the foliage has to be broken down, to be recycled into the . Young freshly planted can be protected against mildews using a heaped tablespoon of baking soda to 1l of warm water with 1mil of Raingard added. Dont worry about picking up dying leaves off the ground to assist in preventing disease re-occurrence next spring.
Instead, spray the dying leaves and with Mycorrcin to aid the breakdown of the organic matter and increase the beneficial life.
Autumn is also the time to harvest seeds from your and other for planting next spring.
Seeds from seeding vegetables such as tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, etc, are easy to collect and dry on a south-facing windowsill.
For silverbeet, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, etc, let one of the best looking go to seed.
Study the flowers and work out the seed pod bit to collect the seeds.
If unsure, place a small plastic bag over a flower as it is finishing flowering. Tie the bag on to the stem so that the seeds will fall into it when mature. If the bag starts to fill with condensation make a couple of small holes in the top.
Once the seeds have been collected and dried, place them in a lock-type small plastic bag with the name of seed-plant and then put the plastic bags into a sealed glass jar and store in the fridge. Seeds can keep well for several years in this way and as they are chilled, they germinate readily when sown.
With the likelyhood of a mild winter it is not too late to plant out of green for winter harvesting. Silverbeet, winter-type lettuce, cabbages and other brassicas can be planted out now (not so for areas prone to early frosts).
Speed up their growth while daylight hours are still reasonable.
With the cost of things going up it pays to have a good garden of to pick.
Problems? Contact Wally Richards: PO Box 489, Palmerston North. Phone: 0800-466464 E-mail: wallyjr@gardenews.co.nz

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Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Master Gardener Mulching #8212; a must

Q: Why should I add mulch to flowerbeds, and what is the best to apply?

%26#8212;Sergio Garcia of Oceano

A: Its a good time of year to begin thinking about mulching your beds or renewing the you applied in the fall. Mulching suppresses weed growth, prevents compaction of soil, conserves moisture, retards erosion and, as it breaks down, acts as a source of nutrients.

There is no one type of that is best in all situations. What might work in perennial beds may not be best in vegetable gardens.

Your choice of mulching materials will depend on where you live, what is available, what you have planted in your garden, and how much you want to spend.

A variety of choices

Bark chips and shredded bark are long lasting and attractive but somewhat expensive. As they break down, they deplete nitrogen from the so add this nutrient before applying these the first time.

Buckwheat and cocoa bean hulls can be attractive in formal situations such as rose gardens. Cocoa beans hulls, however, are reported to be poisonous if eaten by dogs. Dog owners beware.

Less expensive commonly used include oak leaves, peat moss and pine needles (naturally acidic and loved by azaleas, rhododendron, and camellias) as well as hay, seaweed and straw. is best used as a amendment rather than as , as may be spread rather than curtailed.

Not as aesthetically attractive but effective in some landscape situations are inorganic such as black plastic, recycled shredded rubber and .

How much to apply

The rule of thumb is to apply to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Apply spring when the begins to warm. Work in a little fertilizer before applying . In flowerbeds, keep away from stems of and , and from 6 to 12 inches from the trunk of trees to prevent insect damage and rot.

Mimic Mother Nature by providing your garden with a blanket of . You will improve the look and health of your as well as that of your plants.

Lee Oliphant is a SLO County who lives in Cambria.

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Sunday, February 17th, 2008

Make garden a winner with prize plants

As longtime readers of this column know, I love gardens and visit them whenever I travel. I get a chance to see many new plant introductions and see how they are doing in areas around the country.

The nation’s oldest, most-established international testing organization in North America is the All-America Selections. Last summer, I visited the organization’s test gardens in Gilroy, Calif., East Lansing, Mich., and West Chicago, Ill., where this year’s winners were tested before being announced to the public. There are several other AAS display gardens in other locations as well.

Every year since 1932, AAS trials have been planted. The number of judges and sites varies, as does the number of winners. In all cases, the judging criteria are the same and winners must be different from varieties that are already on the market.

The AAS board of directors selects judges and trial sites throughout North America to evaluate if winners will perform well in that location. Entries are judged on qualities such as novel flower forms, colors, fragrance, flowering season and pest tolerance.

Vegetables are selected for traits including earliness to harvest, yield, taste, quality, ease of harvest and pest resistance.
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While I am not an official judge, I did see these winners were performing well in the gardens I visited and are worth considering for your garden.

Osteospermum F1 Asti White is an AAS bedding plant award winner for this season. The flowers were bred and produced by Goldsmith Seeds Inc. in Gilroy, and they were doing very well when I visited those gardens. The plant is also known as African Daisy, Blue-Eyed Daisy or Cape Daisy.

The pure-white flowers with blue centers make this one a showstopper. The large blooms are 2 to 2 1/2 inches across and are borne on graceful stems that allow them to drift in the wind. The thick, fleshy leaves are heat and drought resistant, so this is a good flower for those hot, dry flower beds where other flowers might not thrive.

You might have seen or even grown white Osteospermum before, but Asti White is the first white cultivar propagated from seed. This one has several advantages, the best of which is that this cultivar %26#151; unlike similar flowers that originate in South Africa %26#151; will remain open under cloudy conditions rather than closing on cloudy days.

Asti White plants flower uniformly about 17 weeks after they are planted from seed. The are slightly frost tolerant, so they can be planted several weeks earlier than other .

These thrive in sunny locations. They grow 17 to 20 inches tall with a similar spread. They make excellent container because they trail nicely over the side. While they will grow from seed, most gardeners will want to find transplants to get them off to an earlier start.

Viola F1 Skippy XL Plum-Gold is unique because its flowers features plum shades surrounding the golden centers. These are set off by radiating black lines affectionately called whiskers.

Like other violas, the are small, usually about 1 1/2 inches, but what they lack in size, they make up for in sheer number of blossoms. The judges noted the ability of this plant to cover itself with its interesting flowers.

These will be showstoppers in containers, window boxes or the annual or perennial garden. The grow 6 inches high and spreads 8 inches. Skippy XL Plum-Gold was bred by Kieft Seeds of Holland.

Only one vegetable met the judges’ criteria for 2008. Eggplant F1 Hansel is a vegetable award winner and is best described as a miniature eggplant. The plant produces finger-size clusters of three to six fruit, and it produces them in abundance.

The plant is a strong grower and gets almost 3 feet high. This is one of the earliest eggplants and matures about 55 days after transplanting into warm soil. This makes them about 10 days earlier than comparable cultivars.

Unlike other eggplants, the 3-inch fruit clusters can be left on the plant to grow in size, but they will remain tender and not turn bitter. This plant adapts well to , and the offer excellent yields of shiny, purple eggplants to stir fry, grill or prepare in other ways. This AAS winner was bred by Seminis Vegetable Seed.

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Friday, February 8th, 2008