Noblesville Tour Of Gardens Set For Saturday

The third annual Noblesville Tour of Gardens is from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. June 14, rain or shine, and will take visitors “beyond the garden gate” into eight of North Noblesville’s most beautiful gardens.

This year’s tour ranges from an intimate shade garden, to a National Wildlife Federation Certified Wildlife Habitat, to an 8-acre pastoral spread. Tucked among the blooms and fronds will be artwork, live music and gardening experts speaking on various subjects (including many “green” topics). In addition, one Noblesville home will open up its restored bicycle and tractor collections to visitors, and serve up grilled brats and refreshments.

Visitors are invited to park at the Noblesville Intermediate School and let a shuttle take them through the tour. Tour maps and directions will be available at the school and at the tour’s first stop, Harbour Trees Golf Club, for people who prefer to drive themselves.

Proceeds benefit the Noblesville Preservation Alliance, which works to enhance the quality of life in Noblesville by promoting the preservation of historic neighborhoods and resources.

Tour of Gardens Front Door Sponsors are Industrial Dielectrics, Inc., Noblesville Daily Times and Logan Street Signs and Banners. Front Porch Sponsors are Smith’s Jewelers, Peterson Architecture, Community Bank, Martin K. Deafenbaugh, M.D., P.C., Dr. and Mrs. Jose F. Caro, Green Vista Landscaping, and Church, Church, Hittle and Antrim. Sponsorships for the upcoming Noblesville Tour of Homes in September are available.

Ticket price is $12 (children ages 12 and under are free). Advance tickets will be available at the three Marsh Supermarket locations in Noblesville, Noble Coffee and Tea Co., and A Corner Cottage. On the day of the tour, parking, shuttles and ticket sales will be available at Noblesville Intermediate School, 19900 Hague Road. Tickets also available on the day of tour at Harbour Trees Golf Club, 333 Regents Park Lane.

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Wednesday, June 11th, 2008

Nematodes, Lack Of Pollination May Hamper Squash Growth

Question: Each year my squash blooms prolifically but seldom produce any squash to eat. What am I doing wrong ?

Answer: Squash plants produce male and female blooms. For fruit to set, pollen must be transferred from the male to the female bloom. Pollinating insects, mostly bees, carry out this important job resulting in fresh squash for the kitchen. When treating the garden for insects and diseases, spray or dust in the late afternoon to avoid killing the bees.

Another possible cause of squash not bearing fruit is the possibility of nematode infestation. Check roots for galls of nematodes.

Question: What is the web-like substance on many trees on the edge of town ?

Answer: What you are seeing is tent caterpillars. These caterpillars form webs that cover the branches of the trees while eating the foliage. The damage is minimal but unsightly. If you find it necessary, spray with Orthene or Bacillus thuringiensis.

Question: Why do the annuals that I buy need water three times a day ? Answer: A plant growing naturally of its own accord produces top growth in direct proportion to its roots, but flowers grown in greenhouses are products of a totally unnatural situation. They get all the sunlight, humidity, water and fertilizer they ever want so they grow many more flowers, leaves and stems than their roots could support if they weren’t so pampered. When you plant these pampered plants in the ground, you soon discover you’ve taken home a pack of water junkies.

You can avoid this problem by doing two things: First, never buy annuals already in bloom. Buy healthy but less advanced plants. Second, if someone gives you water junkies, remove all the flowers and about half of the foliage. Then plant. Within two weeks, your plants will be back in balance. Plus, they will bloom much longer and fuller than coddled greenhouse plants.

Tip: For relief from a insect bite, cut a clove of garlic and press the cut side against the sting for instant relief, according to the Garlic Seed Foundation.

Send your gardening and landscaping questions and tips to Washington County Master Gardeners, 2536 N McConnell Ave., Fayetteville, AR 72704. You may also call 444-1755 for answers to your questions.

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Monday, May 26th, 2008

Going Native In Your Garden

Gardening with native plants - that is, with species that grew here before the first settlers arrived from Europe - has always had its supporters, Landscaping Services but it’s a trend that’s getting stronger as part of the eco-friendly movement. Advocates argue that because native species have adapted to local conditions, they’re easier to grow, less likely to invade other parts of the garden, and require less water, pesticides and fertilizers. They also maintain that native plants are the best choice to attract birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

Does this mean we should dig up our non-native perennials and shrubs and replace them with ferns, trilliums, and maples? Not according to two Ottawa garden experts. They say that while native plants do offer advantages, the most practical approach — and sometimes the most eco-friendly — is to integrate them with non-native species, finding the best location for each plant.

“There are a lot of generalizations about native plants, but these aren’t always true,” says Eva Schmitz, owner of Artistic Landscape Design. Take the statement that native plants are hardier. “A species from a country like Russia may be just as hardy as a Canadian native, perhaps hardier,” she says. Nor are native plants necessarily less invasive.

“Some natives spread very quickly,” says Adele Courville, design centre manager at Rockcliffe Landscaping. “An aggressive, self-seeding native may be fine for a woodland area, but not for an urban garden. You can try to stop a plant from spreading by creating a barrier below the soil surface, but in time, it will over-root and won’t survive.” While she believes that native plants are the best for wildlife,

Ms. Schmitz considers this to be a generalization, too. “Birds and bees are attracted by colour and shape. They don’t avoid a plant because it’s originally from Europe or Asia.”

Rather than focusing on whether it’s native or not, both women stress the importance of picking plants that will suit their location in the garden. How well any plant does, they say, depends on whether you have the light, moisture, soil and other conditions it needs. Native white spruce, for example, flourishes

in the forest, but can’t take city pollution; red lobelia thrives in water, but will die in a dry location. “Many native Ontario plants grow in woodlands with rich,

organic soil and plenty of water and shade,” Ms. Courville notes. “They won’t succeed in dry, full sun environment.You must provide similar conditions or a native species can wind up being high maintenance.”

In the wrong space, natives may be as susceptible to disease as other plants. “If you have a native, upright phlox in an area with poor circulation, it will get mildew,” Eva Schmitz says. “Again, it’s about putting the right plant in the right location and keeping it healthy. That’s also the best way to eliminate the use of toxins such as pesticides. I don’t spray any plant.”

Besides being a practical solution for many gardens, integrating native plants with other species boosts can boost variety and visual appeal. Natives can be straggly and inconspicous-looking, and depending on the plant, may take as long as five years to bloom. “Natives that have been hybridized often provide bigger blooms,” Ms. Schmitz observes. “They may also be taller, more compact, and have stronger stems and healthier leaves. In fact, native plants can be made richer with hybridized versions.”

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Friday, May 9th, 2008

Growing wild penstemon species

When I moved to Grass Valley in 1992, I bought a house, which was surrounded by two acres of old overgrown manzanita. A fire trap to be sure. After hiring a brush-clearing firm, Hillside Landscaping I was left with an acre of bare red dirt and a few scattered oaks trees.

I immediately set to work transforming this barren landscape into a garden. I put up a deer fence and built a path system-all the while thinking about what I would plant in my new garden. Because I have a low output well, I was restricted to drought tolerant plants. And because I wanted to create an eco-friendly garden, I chose to plant California native plants.

I decided to experiment with as many different species of penstemon as possible. I had observed several spectacular species in the wild and hoped they would grow well in the garden. My research told me that wild penstemons are tricky to grow and can be short-lived in the garden. Their primary requirement is well draining soil and many of them require minimal irrigation. For those gardeners with poorly drained clay soil, one solution is to import a good sandy loam from a soil vendor and mound it up on top of the existing soil. Both Eaton’s penstemon (P. eatonii) and P. pseudospectabils have thrived in my garden on mounded sandy loam soil. They receive morning sun and are shaded by tall pines in the afternoon. Both these plants form sprawling clumps and have semi-upright stems with tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds. Eaton’s penstemon has red flowers and P. pseudospectabils has outrageous red/pink/pruple flowers that defy description. Both are native to mountainous areas of the southwestern states, but can flourish here in the foothills.

The trick when watering penstemons is to give them enough to keep them looking fresh through the summer, but not too much, otherwise you can kill them with kindness. Many of the penstemon species that inhabit dry desert and mountain habitat in the Southwest, can survive the summer without irrigation once they are established in the garden. But after a long dry summer without water they will look pretty ratty. A more practical solution is create a semi-dry border by combining penstemon species with wild buckwheats, monkey flowers, California poppies, salvias and other drought-tolerant native plants and drip irrigating once every ten days in the summer, beginning in May. This will keep your plants looking fresh and extend their bloom well into the summer. In the Sierra foothills of Nevada and Placer Counties, azure penstemon (P. azureus) and foothill penstemon (P. heterophyllus) are native wildflowers. A hybrid of these two species called Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP’ is one of the easiest penstemons for garden culture. This hybrid was discovered next to the back porch at Las Pilitas nursery in Santa Margarita, Calif-thus its name Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP.’ It forms an evergreen, 3-ft wide sprawling mound covered with masses of tubular blue and purple flowers. Dave Roberts, President of EcoLandscape California, a non-profit ecological landscaping organization, grows P. ‘Margarita BOP’ in his Sacramento garden. He grows it in sandy soil and waters it once a week during the summer, beginning in May, which keeps the plant blooming and looking fresh through the summer.

Several penstemon species have persisted and thrived in my garden without any special improvement of soil drainage. They are all planted in full sun on a west-facing slope. Beginning in May, they are drip irrigated once every two weeks through their first summer after being planted in the garden. During subsequent years, I water them sparingly through July and then cease watering for the rest of the summer.

My hand’s down favorite has been Penstemon incertus. I grew it from seed that I purchased from the Theodore Payne Foundation in southern California.

The plant is clump-forming with multiple 2-foot tall stems, grey green foliage and beautiful blue/purple tubular flowers. It is easy to propagate from cuttings and seed and is now abundant in my garden. My original plant is still thriving after four years. Royal penstemon (P. spectabilis) has also thrived in my garden without soil improvement. This is a gorgeous three-foot tall clump-forming plant. When in full bloom it is covered with blue, pink and purple flowers and buzzing with visiting honey bees. Grinnell’s beard tongue (P. grennellii) also grows on a hot,Hillside Landscaping rocky slope in my garden. It reaches about two feet in height and has multiple stems with coarsely-toothed shiny green leaves. It has puffy balloon-shaped flowers that are lightly scented and colored pink with delicate mauve tracings. This species is very sensitive to over-watering and should not be irrigated in summer. I recommend planting this plant in a sandy loam of decomposed granite soil if possible.

I have also experimented with several species of keckiella, which are the shrubby cousins of the perennial penstemons. They are sometimes called bush penstemons. My resident hummingbird loves the scarlet-colored tubular flowers heartleaf keckiella (K. cordifolia) in my garden. Bees favor the snapdragon-like flowers of yellow keckiella (K. antirrhinoides) in my garden.

All the penstemon species are very easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. I usually leave the spent blooms on some of the stems so that seed pods can develop. I harvest the seed and sow it in pots in the fall so that it is watered by winter rains. The seedlings germinate en masse in early spring. I transplant these directly into the garden or into 4 inch pots-in which case, I grow them through the summer and then plant them into the garden in fall.

Cuttings are easier. I usually wait until February and then cut year-old stems back to sprouting buds near the base of the stems. Then I cut the pruned off stems into 6-inch long sections, and stick these directly into the ground around the parent plants. With a little extra water, these cuttings root quickly and easily. In this way, as older plants die off, new young ones grow up to replace them.

All of these penstemon and bush penstemon species (plus many other California native trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses) will be available for purchase at the Spring Native Plant Sale and Wildflower Show at the Rocklin campus of Sierra College (Parking Lot S) on Saturday, May 3rd from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm.

Quantities of some of these are limited, so come early for the best selection. There will be a special presentation “Wildflowers of Placer and Nevada Counties - Where to See ‘em and How to Grow ‘em” before the sale at 9 am.

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Sunday, April 27th, 2008

Match Tree To Landscaping Site

Answer: Matching the tree to the site is critical. Site considerations include location of space above and below ground, water availability, drainage issues, Landscaping Contractor soil texture and pH, sunlight levels and exposure. Tree considerations should include growth rate of the species. The mature size and form of the tree in addition to hardiness, heat tolerance and drought tolerance also should be considered. Pest resistance, maintenance issues and native versus non-native species also impact tree selection. Most trees will outlive the people who plant them.

Answer: Honeycrisp is a late-fruiting apple cultivar that it is very cold hardy, which means the tree should survive Front Range winters well. Honeycrisp blooms in the early to middle part of the apple flowering period. Honeycrisp does not carry any known exceptional resistances to disease or insects. Apple scab and cedar apple rust lesions have been observed on the leaves, but these diseases have been readily controlled with a standard spray program. Landscaping Contractor It has shown moderate susceptibility to fireblight. The fruit, which usually matures around mid-September, is very crisp and juicy with a flavor balance between sweet and tart. The fruits can be eaten fresh or cooked in pies or other recipes.

For more information, visit www.planttalk.org and read #1201, “Apples.”

Question: What do I need to know before signing a contract with a tree care company?

Answer: Typical services include consultation, problem diagnosis, planting, fertilizing, insect and disease control, cabling and bracing and pruning and removal. All tree care companies offering insect and disease control services with pesticides must be licensed by the Colorado Department of Agriculture.

Tree care companies should be able to provide product labels and safety data sheets on fertilizers and chemicals before treatment. Landscaping Contractor Ask for a list of references where a company’s finished work can be checked. Some tree care companies may employ certified arborists that have passed the test given by the Rocky Mountain Chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture on the principles of tree care and issued a license.

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Friday, April 25th, 2008

Gimme Shelter- Bloomin’ Summer: Get Landscaping Started Now

Q: Last summer, the terrible August heat sapped the color right out of our garden. This year, I’d like to make sure we have some colorful blooms around. When should I start thinking about planting summer bulbs? Garden Landscaping And what are some good summer bulb choices?

A:To ensure great color in your garden in the heat of summer, you’ll need to think about planting your summer bulbs now. Summer bulbs can provide beautiful blooms once your roses and other spring flowers have lost their luster. Also, most of these bulbs will bloom late into the fall Garden Landscaping, giving your asters and chrysanthemums some company.

However, given the cold temperatures we’ve had this spring, the timing can be a little tricky. That’s because summer bulbs need to be planted after all danger of frost has passed. Most folks start planting them at the end of April, but if we get a sudden May frost, you’ll lose them. Even if the outside temperature is warm, the ground can still be cold, and if these colder temperatures persist there’s a chance of a sudden cold snap in May. With summer bulbs it’s best not to jump the gun: keep your bulbs in the fridge until you’re pretty sure those cold nights are past us.

Popular bulbs include gladiolas, dahlias, and lilies. Glads are very popular because they’re tall-stemmed, good for cut flowers, provide a good back-boarder for your garden because they’re so tall, Garden Landscaping and come in vivid colors. They’re also a favorite of hummingbirds. Dahlias, too, provide marvelous color and make great cut flowers.

And lilies, like the popular orange tigers and stargazers, are sturdy plants that can grow in a variety of soils. If you get past the danger of frost, you can expect beautiful blooms to appear in late June or July, and they’ll stick around through August, September, and even October.

Keep in mind, though, the majority of summer bulbs will not over-winter here, so you’ll need to treat them as annuals and be prepared to plant them all over again next spring.

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Friday, April 25th, 2008

Epcot flower fest at Disney

LAKE BUENA VISTA, Fla. — An oldies concert series is part of the annual Epcot International Flower %26amp; Garden Festival at Walt Disney World Resort, March 19-June 1.

The Flower Power concert series includes performances by The Guess Who, Petula Clark, Paul Revere and the Raiders, Jay Black, Herman’s Hermits, Arlo Guthrie, Davy Jones, Jose Feliciano and Tony Orlando.

Also on the schedule for the festival are a March 23 Easter Brunch and a May 11 Mother’s Day Brunch. Exhibits include Disney Topiary, millions of blooms and Garden Town, where you can get gardening tips and take part in demonstrations led by horticulturalists.

Details at http://www.disneyworld.com/flower or 407-824-4321.

Copyright document.write(new Date().getFullYear()); Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

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Sunday, March 23rd, 2008

Top indoor plants for winter (Part 2)

Sarah Raven’s two-part special on top indoor plants. This week: Sarah transforms plain shop-bought plantsIndoor plants (Part 1)Garden gift ideasThere isn’t much to set your pulse racing in the garden at this time of year so indoor growing can really come to the fore. Hard work: Sarah twines jasmine around a frame of twigsA miniature azalea, a hellebore, a frame of jasmine, a bowl of hyacinths, tulips or narcissus - any of these look absolutely fine just as they come, in a plastic pot. However, they can all be made into something fabulous with a bit of crafty doctoring.HelleboresFirstly, you need a collection of plants that will flower in the garden in a few weeks’ time, but which can be forced into bloom earlier by growing them inside. One of my favourite “house” plants in January is Helleborus niger, the Christmas rose. This certainly doesn’t flower in my garden in Sussex at Christmas (more like Valentine’s day), but the pots you find in garden centres are already covered in buds and flowers.The biggest and best flowers come on a hybrid called ‘Potter’s Wheel’. You may think that these cold-weather plants would hate it inside, but they don’t. Keep them well-watered and not too warm and they don’t seem to suffer from a couple of months indoors. They thrive in partial shade and are happy in the lower light levels found in most houses. Cram three or five into a big pot and scatter dried leaves randomly over the pot surface (see inset, centre). A good-sized plant will continue to flower from now until March or even April. Once there are no more buds to come, plant out in the garden.Forced bulbsThe same treatment works well for pots of forced bulbs, especially with narcissus such as ‘Paper White’, ‘Avalanche’, ‘Silver Chimes’, or the spicy-scented species N. canaliculatus. This is one of the most delicate flowers of the whole family, with stems that are only 10cm (4in) tall and fine, silvery grey leaves. They are ideal for forcing and quite beautiful. I once saw this species growing wild in the scree of a Cretan mountainside and, when forcing them indoors, I try to create a display that mimics as closely as possible the way they looked that day.The bank behind the house at Perch Hill is covered with blackthorn and scrubby hawthorn trees, all encrusted with silver lichen. The effect is very like the lichen-covered boulders that surrounded the flowers on the Omalos plateau in southern Crete, so I scatter a few blackthorn twigs in between each clump of bulbs. The whole bowl looks magnificent from the moment I bring it in, whether only the foliage is on display or the flower buds themselves are starting to emerge. When in flower, N. canaliculatus will fill the room with delicious scent and, if dead-headed regularly, the bowl can take pride of place for a good six weeks. You can also use branches to help support taller-growing bulbs. It works brilliantly with freesias, and when forcing tulips such as the frilly Parrot tulip, ‘Rococo’. This and the raspberry-ripple Parrot variety, ‘Estella Rynveld’, are the two most spectacular tulips for forcing indoors in a pot, but they tend to flop about with no frame. Forced hyacinths also look so much better for a scattering of leaves and a few short, stout branches poked in between to prop up the heavy feather-duster blooms as they grow.Pink jasmineThis winter I’ve been trying the same idea with pink jasmine, Jasminum polyanthum. You can buy these all over the place at this time of year, and they already look and smell fantastic but, again, don’t just leave them au naturel. Buy as tall a specimen as you can. Once you’ve brought it home, remove the canes and spread the twining stems out on to a table. You’ll need patience to separate out each stem - it’s just like unknotting long, tangled hair. Then repot the plant and, depending on the size of the pot, poke in six or eight 75cm-1m (2ft6in-3ft4in) branches of silver birch. Bend the first one over into a dome attaching it to the one opposite.Twist and bind these on to each other to make a hoop, doubling back when you get near the whippy ends and so tying off and securing each branch. This sounds difficult, but is in fact very easy to do. If there are any lower branches, turn them at right angles and bind them on to the next branch around. This makes a lower level to your plant basket and strengthens the frame.Move on to the next pairing and do the same, until the whole twiggy dome is made. Then twist and twine the long stems of jasmine over the top and around the whole dome as evenly as you can. Don’t worry if you end up with the flowers and buds pointing in odd directions. They will right themselves by orientating towards the light. Kept cool (not above 18C/65F) in a bright, very well lit room (crucial as the flowers go brown and drop quickly if grown in conditions that are too hot and dark), the jasmine will thrive. It likes high humidity, so put the pot on a tray full of pebbles in water. The water level must be kept below the top of the pebbles so the compost doesn’t get too wet, but the extra humidity will help the flowers stay fresh for longer.With the hellebore and tulips, you get looks alone. With the narcissus, hyacinths and jasmine, you get beauty and added fragrance. But any of these marvellous specimens will make a fantastic centrepiece for your table until the garden is full of spring flowers.What you needTo decorate your arrangements, look outdoors. Fill a carrier bag with dried leaves. If they still have good strong colour in them - maple, cotinus and many fruit trees will - so much the better. If the colour has faded, look for a good, distinctive shape. Oak leaves; huge, serrated, sweet chestnut leaves, or small yellow splashes of silver birch are excellent. They don’t have to be bone dry. Lay them out overnight somewhere warm and they’ll be crisp and beautiful by morning.You will also need a few pliable branches. Silver birch is good, as is cornus, hazel or willow. These will be bendy when freshly cut and you can weave and knot their whippy ends like string. Hedges lining country lanes are now being cut. You won’t annoy landowners by chopping off a few straggly branches to bring indoors.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Top indoor plants for winter (Part 2)

Sarah Raven’s two-part special on top indoor plants. This week: Sarah transforms plain shop-bought plantsIndoor plants (Part 1)Garden gift ideasThere isn’t much to set your pulse racing in the garden at this time of year so indoor growing can really come to the fore. Hard work: Sarah twines jasmine around a frame of twigsA miniature azalea, a hellebore, a frame of jasmine, a bowl of hyacinths, tulips or narcissus - any of these look absolutely fine just as they come, in a plastic pot. However, they can all be made into something fabulous with a bit of crafty doctoring.HelleboresFirstly, you need a collection of plants that will flower in the garden in a few weeks’ time, but which can be forced into bloom earlier by growing them inside. One of my favourite “house” plants in January is Helleborus niger, the Christmas rose. This certainly doesn’t flower in my garden in Sussex at Christmas (more like Valentine’s day), but the pots you find in garden centres are already covered in buds and flowers.The biggest and best flowers come on a hybrid called ‘Potter’s Wheel’. You may think that these cold-weather plants would hate it inside, but they don’t. Keep them well-watered and not too warm and they don’t seem to suffer from a couple of months indoors. They thrive in partial shade and are happy in the lower light levels found in most houses. Cram three or five into a big pot and scatter dried leaves randomly over the pot surface (see inset, centre). A good-sized plant will continue to flower from now until March or even April. Once there are no more buds to come, plant out in the garden.Forced bulbsThe same treatment works well for pots of forced bulbs, especially with narcissus such as ‘Paper White’, ‘Avalanche’, ‘Silver Chimes’, or the spicy-scented species N. canaliculatus. This is one of the most delicate flowers of the whole family, with stems that are only 10cm (4in) tall and fine, silvery grey leaves. They are ideal for forcing and quite beautiful. I once saw this species growing wild in the scree of a Cretan mountainside and, when forcing them indoors, I try to create a display that mimics as closely as possible the way they looked that day.The bank behind the house at Perch Hill is covered with blackthorn and scrubby hawthorn trees, all encrusted with silver lichen. The effect is very like the lichen-covered boulders that surrounded the flowers on the Omalos plateau in southern Crete, so I scatter a few blackthorn twigs in between each clump of bulbs. The whole bowl looks magnificent from the moment I bring it in, whether only the foliage is on display or the flower buds themselves are starting to emerge. When in flower, N. canaliculatus will fill the room with delicious scent and, if dead-headed regularly, the bowl can take pride of place for a good six weeks. You can also use branches to help support taller-growing bulbs. It works brilliantly with freesias, and when forcing tulips such as the frilly Parrot tulip, ‘Rococo’. This and the raspberry-ripple Parrot variety, ‘Estella Rynveld’, are the two most spectacular tulips for forcing indoors in a pot, but they tend to flop about with no frame. Forced hyacinths also look so much better for a scattering of leaves and a few short, stout branches poked in between to prop up the heavy feather-duster blooms as they grow.Pink jasmineThis winter I’ve been trying the same idea with pink jasmine, Jasminum polyanthum. You can buy these all over the place at this time of year, and they already look and smell fantastic but, again, don’t just leave them au naturel. Buy as tall a specimen as you can. Once you’ve brought it home, remove the canes and spread the twining stems out on to a table. You’ll need patience to separate out each stem - it’s just like unknotting long, tangled hair. Then repot the plant and, depending on the size of the pot, poke in six or eight 75cm-1m (2ft6in-3ft4in) branches of silver birch. Bend the first one over into a dome attaching it to the one opposite.Twist and bind these on to each other to make a hoop, doubling back when you get near the whippy ends and so tying off and securing each branch. This sounds difficult, but is in fact very easy to do. If there are any lower branches, turn them at right angles and bind them on to the next branch around. This makes a lower level to your plant basket and strengthens the frame.Move on to the next pairing and do the same, until the whole twiggy dome is made. Then twist and twine the long stems of jasmine over the top and around the whole dome as evenly as you can. Don’t worry if you end up with the flowers and buds pointing in odd directions. They will right themselves by orientating towards the light. Kept cool (not above 18C/65F) in a bright, very well lit room (crucial as the flowers go brown and drop quickly if grown in conditions that are too hot and dark), the jasmine will thrive. It likes high humidity, so put the pot on a tray full of pebbles in water. The water level must be kept below the top of the pebbles so the compost doesn’t get too wet, but the extra humidity will help the flowers stay fresh for longer.With the hellebore and tulips, you get looks alone. With the narcissus, hyacinths and jasmine, you get beauty and added fragrance. But any of these marvellous specimens will make a fantastic centrepiece for your table until the garden is full of spring flowers.What you needTo decorate your arrangements, look outdoors. Fill a carrier bag with dried leaves. If they still have good strong colour in them - maple, cotinus and many fruit trees will - so much the better. If the colour has faded, look for a good, distinctive shape. Oak leaves; huge, serrated, sweet chestnut leaves, or small yellow splashes of silver birch are excellent. They don’t have to be bone dry. Lay them out overnight somewhere warm and they’ll be crisp and beautiful by morning.You will also need a few pliable branches. Silver birch is good, as is cornus, hazel or willow. These will be bendy when freshly cut and you can weave and knot their whippy ends like string. Hedges lining country lanes are now being cut. You won’t annoy landowners by chopping off a few straggly branches to bring indoors.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

British cut flowers by post

Brighten up the home or treat friends and family with locally grown blooms . Compiled by Anna TyzackIn pictures: Best of BritishMore gardening picture galleriesA bunch of fresh flowers, hand-picked from British fields and glasshouses, will liven up the gloomiest sitting room or hall. Cut flowers make a great giftYou can order British cut flowers online for as little as %26pound;9, and your blooms will arrive in the post within two days. Remember to select flowers that are in season, to guarantee they have been grown in the British Isles.Scented Narcissi and Pinks Scilly Flowers (01720 422169; www.scillyflowers.co.uk)Scented narcissi in winter and show pinks in summer are delivered in a sturdy box with your personal message on a card. Orders received before 12 noon arrive in the post two days later. From %26pound;9 for a posy pack of 16 stems.English roses Country Roses, Essex (01206 273565; www.countryroses.co.uk)Country Roses grows 60 different varieties and can deliver by courier during the season (May-November). After hand-picking early in the morning, the roses are carefully packaged and delivered to your door. From %26pound;45 for 20, plus delivery.Daffodils, asters and chrysanthemums Clowance Wood Nurseries, Cornwall (01209 831317; www.flowersbyclowance.co.uk)This family run Cornish cut flower business is now in its third generation and provides early daffodils before Christmas. Other flowers include stocks, lilies, chrysanthemums, asters and anemones. A bunch of daffodils is %26pound;9.99 including postage and gift wrap; 10 chrysanthemums cost %26pound;15.95.Freesias Flowers from Guernsey (01481 256704; www.flowersfromguernsey.com)Up to 10 million blooms are grown annually in 10 acres of glasshouses, including carnations and freesias. The company also supplies award-winning irises. Flowers are picked while still in bud and packaged with a personal message. An arrangement of five carnations and 10 freesias costs %26pound;12, 10 mixed carnations %26pound;11.Lilies and tulips Wiggly Wigglers, Herts (01981 500391; www.wigglywigglers.co.uk)Wiggly Wigglers is famous for its womeries and composting devices, but is also a supplier of fine seasonal cut flowers. In January and February daffodils are on offer but soon the tulips and lilies will be ready. Beautiful hand-arranged bouquets cost %26pound;35, seasonal selection boxes %26pound;20. Orders placed before 2pm Monday-Thursday will be despatched that day.Carnations Allwoods (01273 844229; www.allwoods.net)Allwoods began sending flowers by post in 1915 and now stocks nearly 100 varieties of carnation. Flowers are hand-picked, arranged with foliage and a personal message, and arrive within two days. A bunch of 12 carnations costs %26pound;12.95, a small bouquet of white carnations %26pound;15.95.Violets Devon Violet Nursery (01404 813701; www.sweetviolets.co.uk)In the early 20th century, Dawlish in Devon was the most important centre for the cultivation of violets and a train ran to Covent Garden Market in London every day. After the war, violets went out of fashion, and it is only thanks to the efforts of specialist growers that the flower is returning. Posies of freshly cut violets can be ordered online from January to April, from %26pound;9.99.The first ever yellow-flowering streptocarpus will be unveiled at the Chelsea Flower Show this year. Breeder Dibleys Nurseries has named it ‘Alissa’. It’s available to buy as a plug plant from Dibleys for %26pound;4, but the company is offering Telegraph readers three ‘Alissa’ for %26pound;15.95 including delivery in March (01978 790677; www.dibleys.com).Sarah Raven’s illustrated guide to growing cut flowers contains helpful advice on growing and arranging beautiful blooms. Grow your own Cut Flowers by Sarah Raven (Ebury) is available for %26pound;18 + %26pound;1.25 p?%26amp;?p. To order, contact Telegraph Books (0870 428 4112; www.books.telegraph.co.uk)

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008