June Landscaping Tips Butterflies And Gardens Special To The Online Edition

Celebrate summer by welcoming butterflies into your garden. Butterfly gardens are different from many other “theme” gardens. To be successful, the garden not only needs to have a pleasing design that works with the surrounding home and landscape, but it needs to perform a very specific task. Attracting butterflies may seem fairly straightforward, but you cannot assume all butterflies are attracted to all flowers.

Butterflies are beautiful, somewhat ethereal creatures whose colorful wings and graceful flight patterns add a sense of wonder to any garden planting

Butterflies have plant preferences: There are literally thousands of species of butterflies, and each species tends to have a distinct group of plants as preferred food source. When selecting plants for a butterfly garden, it is also important to remember that a butterfly goes through four life cycles, with one set of food requirements for the larval stage and another type of food once the butterfly emerges from the chrysalis.

The nectar sources for butterflies include annuals, perennials, wildflowers, herbs, shrubs and trees. Annuals and tender perennials known to attract many species of butterfly include zinnias, white alyssum, marigolds, lantana, cosmos, nicotiana, petunias, ageratum, fuchsia, snapdragons and sunflowers. Herbs and wildflowers that attract butterflies include chives and other alliums, bee balm, spearmint, Anaphalis, Lunaria, Verbena, dandelions, clover, Queen Anne’s Lace, butterfly weed, goldenrod and thistle.

Perennials for butterfly gardens include daisies, Phlox, Aster, Liatris, Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Eupatorium, Achillea, Aubretia, Helenium, Echinops, Limonium, Sedum, Phystostegia, Scabiosa, Coreopsis, Hemerocallis, Heuchera, Lilium, Lythrum, Lavandula, Myosotis and Penstemon. Shrubs, vines and trees for butterfly gardens include Abelia, Aesculus, Aruncus, Buddleia, Clethra, Crataegus, Lindera, Lonicera, Malus, Prunus, Ribes, Salix, Spirea, Syringa, Vaccinium and Wisteria.

Design help: If a butterfly garden is to be created as part of an older, established landscape, look for a site that offers shelter—an overgrown fence, a clump of trees, the base of a sloping lot, or a rocky outcropping with a flat, grassy spot nearby. Water features and several hours of sun would complete the picture—minus only the butterfly-attracting plants.

Call it serendipity, but the preferred style of planting for design purposes—starting with low edging plants and gradually working up, level by level, to the tallest plants—is also one of the best arrangements for a butterfly garden. This is not only because it makes it easier for the butterflies to identify their favorite nectar-producing plants when they are clearly visible, but the taller plants offer shelter from both wind and predators.

The popular concept of a mixed border, combining annuals, perennials, herbs, roses, shrubs, vines and ornamental trees, all underplanted with bulbs, will provide a long bloom season as well as a variety of food sources and forms of shelter that will attract a large assortment of butterflies over a long period.

Other design guidelines: Although some theme gardens need meticulous care and a neat, sometimes formal appearance to create the intended ambience, butterflies like their surroundings to be a little messy. Rocky paths muddied by a sprinkler or parts of the garden where water pools on flat rocks will attract many species of butterfly like a luxury spa attracts movie stars. Research indicates that minerals released through the water’s evaporation process, primarily sodium, may play a vital part in the mating habits of butterflies. For this reason, some experts recommend putting small salt licks in a butterfly garden.

Areas in or around the garden where grass is allowed to grow long can act as a shelter and, for some species, a place to lay their eggs. If you can live with a section of your garden that is somewhat overgrown with grass, wildflowers, trees and shrubs, you will probably find more butterflies in this little wilderness than among carefully tended flower beds

Like plants, there are woodland butterfly species and those that prefer a sunny spot. Even sun-loving butterflies will appreciate the presence of a shaded shelter.

Butterflies have a powerful sense of smell. Much like dogs, the scents that they find attractive aren’t always scents the human population likes to encourage. Rotting fruits and vegetables are gourmet treats for some butterflies, while others are drawn to the more pleasant aromas of clover or wild violets.

Pesticides and herbicides should be avoided, whenever possible, because in almost every stage of life butterflies are extremely vulnerable to such toxins.

Some butterflies stay around for winter: Not many butterflies overwinter in the extreme climates of the Midwest, but those that do ( sometimes called “hibernators” ) will also benefit from winter shelter—mounds of ivy growing over old tree stumps, piles of logs or large, dead tree branches, a stack of old bricks or chunks of concrete.

Some butterflies will hibernate in old trees, while others will welcome the presence of specially designed “butterfly houses” as winter shelter. Winter or summer, butterflies need protection from the wind and a place where the sun will be reflected, somewhere safe from predators—including the trampling feet of children.

Types of butterflies: Monarch butterflies are usually a common sight in Illinois. Other likely candidates include Cabbage White butterflies, Clouded Sulphur, Orange Sulphur, Eastern-Tailed Blue, Meadow Fritillary, Pearl Crescent, Viceroy, Great Spangled Fritillary, Summer Azure, Question Mark, Least Skipper, European Skipper, and the Dion Skipper.

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Wednesday, June 11th, 2008

Cultivate your own style

Peer over the fences of gardens in Britain and you will soon realise that many
fall into one of four styles: cottage, formal, jungle and contemporary. The
first two appeal to the romantics among us, and go well with older housing
stock; the strong lines of jungle and contemporary styles suit modern urban
living. A strength of all four is that their design rules can be applied to
any garden, large or small. If you have lots of space, don%26rsquo;t confine
yourself to one style, but divide it into themed %26ldquo;rooms%26rdquo;.

The five-day RHS Chelsea Flower Show, opening on May 22, is great for
inspiration. Visit www.rhs.org.uk for tickets, available for May 24 to 26;
and timesonline.co.uk/chelseaflowershow
for coverage.
FORMAL GARDENS
Let%26rsquo;s start with that quintessentially British design, the formal garden. Our
signature style is typified by organised, well-tended herbaceous borders %26ndash;
either long and straight, or sweeping curves %26ndash; framing a pristine swathe of
velvety lawn. Traditionally, borders were filled with colourful perennials,
but as design rules have evolved, roses and other shrubs have been added
into the mix. Striking features are symmetry and repetition, nowhere more
than in the knot garden %26ndash; a Tudor innovation, with low hedges laid out in
intricate patterns %26ndash; and its grander cousin, the parterre. This is the
garden of our great houses, but its influences have filtered through to the
suburbs. Formal is what we%26rsquo;re good at, and what visitors to our shores
expect to see.
HARD LANDSCAPING
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Background
Cultivate your own style

Get back to your roots
Related Links
Outer vision

Take your lead from the house and its surroundings, and use classic materials.
Choose red brick for paths and walls if that is the dominant material, or
stone, the perfect mellow partner for plants. Use exterior paint colours
that work in our gentle northern European light. Pale greens, putty and
smoky blues have been used for centuries, with good reason: they look
fantastic. Farrow %26amp; Ball (01202 876141, www.farrow-ball.
co.uk) has a great selection.

You are trying to achieve a look of informal abundance, but beneath the
insouciance, you need a corset-like framework of hard landscaping and
planting that will soften over time to develop a patina of age. The formal
garden is not low-maintenance. Regular, continual weeding is crucial, as are
staking and deadheading. A large garden requires an army of helpers.
PLANTS
Evergreen hedges of yew, holly or box, topiary and shrubberies are a formal
style%26rsquo;s backbone and ensure the garden looks great during winter, when
perennials have been cut back.

Bulbs help to sustain interest all year round. Let crocuses, snowdrops and
fritillaries colonise grassy areas and the ground beneath trees and shrubs
in early spring; plant out hundreds of tulip bulbs in autumn to flower in
late spring; pepper borders with alliums, which flower in early summer; and
fill decorative containers with lilies for later in the season.

Use a variety of perennials in borders (see below), but don%26rsquo;t be confused by
%26ldquo;new perennial%26rdquo; planting, a style that has come from Germany and America.
This is looser, and tends to incorporate swathes of a single plant and lots
of grasses.

Roses have broken free from the unhealthy monoculture of the formal rose
garden and taken their place in the mixed border. Climbers and ramblers
should adorn every available wall, balustrade and pergola, with clematis
clambering through the stems.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
English gardeners, especially, are judged by the state of their lawn. Keep
yours immaculate and the whole garden will look groomed. Don%26rsquo;t be afraid of
colour. While formal gardens can have elegant single-shade themes %26ndash; the
white garden at Sissinghurst, in Kent, say, or Prince Charles%26rsquo;s
black-and-white scheme at Highgrove (though no plant is truly black) %26ndash; most
are a riot of colour.

The traditional British herbaceous border is highly organised. Use plants in
threes or fives to create a patchwork of contrasting colour, shape and
texture, with the taller plants at the back and shorter ones at the front.
Repetition works well: use the same plant or group of plants to punctuate a
border.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Chris Beardshaw won a gold medal for his Chelsea debut in 1999, and last year
the people%26rsquo;s choice award and another gold medal. His garden, Celebrating
100 Years of Hidcote Manor, is at site MA19 at this year%26rsquo;s RHS Chelsea
Flower Show. He recommends the following: For every straight line or path,
you have to have a focal point %26ndash; such as a piece of sculpture, water feature
or specimen plant %26ndash; to draw you along it. Use traditional English garden
plants, such as old English roses, geraniums, Iris germanica,
lavender and aquilegias. They perform well and thrive in fickle British
weather. Gardens should tempt you outside all year. Visit a nursery every
couple of weeks to see which plants are in flower, so you can plan swathes
or drifts for a lasting display.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire (01386 438333, www.nationaltrust.org.uk);
Levens Hall, Cumbria (015395 60321, www.levenshall.co.uk);
Castle and Gardens of Mey, Thurso, Highland (01847 851473, www.castleofmey.org.uk). CONTEMPORARYGARDENS
In designing a truly contemporary garden, there need be no limit to the scope
of your imagination. Designers have really been pushing the boundaries in
recent years, and ideas that once seemed shocking are now filtering through
to the mainstream. The landscaping should have hard edges and strongly
defined geometry. Clean, straight lines or circles with a purpose, rather
than meandering curves, can bring an unexpected sense of calm to even the
most aggressively minimalist garden.
HARD LANDSCAPING
Be bold. Sleek galvanised steel, zinc and rusted iron will look at home in an
urban garden, and the shock of seeing them in a rural context will give your
garden real bite.

Don%26rsquo;t use too many conflicting landscaping materials, and keep the lines pure,
simple and uncluttered. Don%26rsquo;t, for example, add a few extra terracotta pots
when everything else is slate and stone %26ndash; in a modern design, the beautiful,
understated container is king.

Getting the scale of decorative accessories right is also crucial. Play with
both size and scale: two or three simple outsized containers, whether
planted up or not, will make a punchy statement. Raised beds, which add
interest by introducing planting on different levels, are another option.
PLANTS
Gardening programmes are quick to encourage us to ditch the lawn in small,
modern plots. But if you love the look and feel of grass under your feet,
you don%26rsquo;t mind getting the lawn mower out and your garden gets plenty of
sun, I think there is no better backdrop for the rest of your planting. Keep
the lawn shape simple, and surround it with stone, slate or concrete slabs
set at the same height. This will enable the mower to glide over the edges
and keep the lawn looking fresh and sharp.

A backbone of evergreen structural plants can be softened by perennial
grasses. The most dramatic is bamboo; varieties such as the black-stemmed Phyllostachys
nigra have become stalwarts of contemporary designs. They add height,
and the gentle sway and rustle of grass leaves in the wind looks and sounds
lovely.

Planned well, a contemporary style can be the ideal low-maintenance option for
time-poor gardeners. Stick to a restricted palette of evergreen plants that
will look good all year with minimal intervention, and ring the seasonal
changes with colourful bulbs, such as the orange Tulipa %26lsquo;Ballerina%26rsquo;,
and annuals. Simple white double busy lizzies, for instance, are low-growing
and shade-tolerant, and look clean and fresh en masse.

Minimalism in contemporary garden design does not rule out some variety:
perennials and grasses, divided into big blocks of each plant, can enhance a
modern feel.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Reduce the number and range of plants to a select few, then repeat them in
different places around the garden. Tones of green should predominate,
heightened by spots of other colours, when selecting your flowers and
materials. Whether you choose bright tones %26ndash; oranges, pinks and yellows %26ndash; or
sultry shades such as purples and dark reds, keep to a few complementary or
contrasting colours.

The best contemporary gardens not only look good, but function brilliantly. Be
eco-aware at the planning stage and it will be easy to incorporate
drought-tolerant plants, solar panels and seep-hose watering systems.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Andy Sturgeon, whose contemporary designs have won him gold medals at Chelsea
for two years running, and whose Cancer Research UK garden is positioned at
MA20 in this year%26rsquo;s show, says: Use clean lines and bold shapes, putting an
emphasis on form, texture and colour. You don%26rsquo;t have to use modern
materials, such as glass and metal. Traditional elements such as wood and
stone can also work. They should look crisp, with sharp lines and clean
edges. Structures and hard surfaces are paramount, and should be used as a
framework on which to hang the planting. Don%26rsquo;t clutter the garden. A single
striking sculpture or a row of matching pots can be dramatic. Use a
restricted colour palette for plants and materials to give the garden
cohesion and simplicity.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
The Eden Project (01726 811911, www.edenproject.co.uk); Governor%26rsquo;s Garden,
Portland Castle, near Weymouth, Dorset (01305 820539, www.english-heritage.
org.uk); Marks Hall, Coggeshall, Essex (01376 563796, www.markshall.org.uk). COTTAGE GARDENS
Romantic and chocolate-box pretty, cottage gardens hold a special place in the
public imagination, even if they represent a somewhat idealised
representation of country life. It is a style that can be adapted to most
smaller gardens, whether you have a genuine period country cottage or a
new-build house on an estate. Wherever it is, the best cottage garden should
be productive and include edible plants.
HARD LANDSCAPING
Choose materials that are in keeping with your plot%26rsquo;s style and scale. Gravel
works well for paths, and, if you live in the Cotswolds or the Peak
District, make the most of traditional dry-stone walling.

Avoid becoming overly grand. A cottage garden is not really the place for
classical urns and large sculptures. It is, however, the setting in which to
indulge your taste for what might look twee elsewhere %26ndash; small birdbaths and
sundials, a distressed, painted bird-feeder or a dovecote on a pole, even
figures of ducks and chicks.

Keep water features small and natural-looking. Install a pond, allow it to
become slightly overgrown %26ndash; though take care not to let the liner show at
the edge %26ndash; and it will soon attract a wide range of fascinating wildlife.
PLANTS
The image you%26rsquo;re aiming for is roses round the door and borders dotted with
hollyhocks, daisies and hardy geraniums %26ndash; the ground-covering Geranium
%26lsquo;Johnson%26rsquo;s Blue%26rsquo; is particularly popular. Perennials tend to dominate in
cottage-garden schemes, but flowering shrubs such as buddleia will add
structure and attract butterflies. Cottage gardens should also be
productive, so mix in visually attractive %26ndash; and delicious %26ndash; fruit and veg.

Box topiary works well, and even novelty shapes, such as animals and birds,
seem charming rather than naff. Tall, spire-like plants add a vertical
change from the frothiness of the border. Delphiniums and verbascums
flourish in full sun; foxgloves prefer dappled shade.
A cottage garden is not complete without some sweet-smelling blooms. Include
plenty of fragrant plants such as night-scented stocks, lavender and pinks
in the corners where you tend to linger or sit.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Go for curved flower beds rather than straight lines and geometric shapes. The
effect should be blowsy and overflowing. In borders, pack the plants in
tightly for an abundant look.

You shouldn%26rsquo;t be able to see the soil between the plants, but they can be
allowed to spill over paths. Use every plane. Walls, fences, even shed roofs
should be laden with climbers such as honeysuckle and rambling roses;
introduce height in borders with rustic tripods and other plant supports,
and let sweet peas and clematis scramble through them. Encourage
self-seeding. Catch seeds by tying paper bags over the flowerheads; you can
then plant them where you want. Allow Alchemilla mollis, Verbena
bonariensis and Welsh or opium poppies to nestle in paving cracks and at
the edges of gravel paths.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Geoffrey Whiten has won six gold medals at Chelsea. His Brett Landscaping
Garden, to be found at RHW40 in this year%26rsquo;s show, takes the theme of a
farmworker%26rsquo;s plot. He says: Don%26rsquo;t overplan: the garden will evolve. Buy a
cheap garden shed and, if it is strong enough, put old slates or tiles on
the roof. Recycle. Line old wooden boxes with polythene, for example, and
use as planters
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Chiffchaffs, Bourton, Dorset (01747 840841); Alfriston Clergy House, East
Sussex (01323 870001, www.nationaltrust.org.uk)
.JUNGLE GARDENS
Whether it is a link with our colonial past, or simply a desire to trade our
unpredictable weather for something more exotic, the jungle-style garden is
increasingly popular with the great British public.

Typified by lots of lush tropical foliage, an abundance of structural,
architectural plants and bright flower colour, it%26rsquo;s a look that works best
in a sunny, sheltered area, but some elements can be incorporated into
gardens pretty much anywhere if you give a bit of rudimentary frost
protection to the more tender plants: lift dahlias and cannas, for instance,
and store them over winter; and wrap the stems of bananas with fleece.
HARD LANDSCAPING
A jungle garden relies largely on the way you structure your planting, so hard
landscaping plays a supporting role. It can be formal or informal, with
lawns or paving. Plant bold and abundant foliage to attract attention.

Make use of the warm tones of natural timber. Teak steamer chairs and a decked
floor create just the right feel %26ndash; though be sure that whatever you buy is
made of timber from sustainable sources. Use materials that reflect and
complement the tones of the flowers and foliage. Decorative elements in
bronze and beaten copper would be beautiful.
PLANTS
The upper-storey planting is a vital element. Towering plants set the scene,
give a sense of abundance and enclosure, and can block out neighbouring
eyesores. In small gardens use tall palms (the Chusan palm, Trachycarpus
fortunei, is the hardiest) and bananas (Musa basjoo is the most
reliable in this country). If you have room you could include trees with
golden or acid-green foliage, such as Robinia pseudoacacia %26lsquo;Frisia%26rsquo;
or Gleditsia triacanthos %26lsquo;Sunburst%26rsquo;.

To achieve a sense of lushness and density, bulk up exotic planting with a
background filling of standard evergreen shrubs. The spotted laurel Fatsia
japonica and Choisya ternata are commonly grown and widely
available, but suit the tropical look perfectly.

Grasses, particularly those with bold colouring, such as Hakonechloa macra
%26lsquo;Alboaurea%26rsquo;, or Carex oshimensis %26lsquo;Evergold%26rsquo;, are useful
in borders, while feathery varieties and other plants can provide a spot of
respite amid a sea of solid foliage and flowers. The dark stems and airy
leaves of bronze fennel would be ideal.

Ultimately, the flowers will add the zip that makes this type of garden zing %26ndash;
cannas, crocosmias and red-hot pokers are indispensable.

And don%26rsquo;t forget to add bulbs, corms and tubers for year-round colour. Choose
trumpet-shaped lilies, bright parrot tulips, statuesque crown imperials and
gaudy dahlias that shout: %26ldquo;Look at me.%26rdquo; SPECIALIST NURSERIES AND SUPPLIERS
Exotics: Architectural Plants (01403 891772, www.architecturalplants.com);
The Palm Centre (020 8255 6191, www.thepalmcentre.co.uk).
Topiary: Romantic Garden Nursery (01603 261488, www.romantic-garden-nursery.co.uk).
Terracotta: Italian Terrace (01284 789666,
www.italianterrace.co.uk), Whichford Pottery (01608 684416, www.whichfordpottery.com). Rusted iron plant supports: Room in the Garden (01730 816881, www.roominthegarden.co.uk) SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Think big. This style is not for the timid gardener. It needs plants with
presence, enormous leaves and bright colour. Half measures will produce an
insipid version of the tropical look.

These colours should fall within the %26ldquo;hot%26rdquo; range of the spectrum.

Luminous chartreuse and golden yellows will vie for attention amid orange,
magenta, scarlet and purple. Don%26rsquo;t ignore foliage colour.

The brash, stripy leaves of Canna %26lsquo;Durban%26rsquo; almost outshine the orange
flowers, and the dark-bronze or purple stems and foliage of Dahlia
%26lsquo;Bishop of Llandaff%26rsquo; are key to its popularity.

Texture is as important as colour in a tropical style. Look for large
palm-shaped leaves such as Rodgersia podophylla, and juxtapose them
with slender, strap-like foliage such as phormiums and cordylines. Rough,
nobbly leaves and stems are more interesting when set against something
smooth and shiny.

A summerhouse provides a focal point in abundant borders. Cottage-garden
signatures include honeysuckle over a trellis and paths festooned with
overspilling blooms.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Mark Browning, winner of a gold medal for his garden at Chelsea last year, and
designer of the Fleming%26rsquo;s and Trailfinders Australian Garden, located at
RHW33 at this year%26rsquo;s show, says: Don%26rsquo;t rely on flowers %26ndash; use foliage to
provide tone and texture. Trees such as silver birch and beech can provide
the canopy for an urban enchanted forest. Underplant beech with heucheras
for romantic ambience. Hard landscaping should complement the planting and
provide a platform from which to enjoy the garden.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Tresco Abbey, Isles of Scilly (01720 424108, www.tresco.co.uk);
Lost Gardens of Heligan (01726 845100, www.heligan.com);
Exotic Garden, Norwich (01603 623167, www.exoticgarden.com
).

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Tuesday, December 18th, 2007