Low Maintanence Landscaping

Landscape maintenance can be a daunting task and can take up a lot of time. If you feel you will not have a lot of time to dedicate for maintaining your landscape, you better start planning for a low maintenance landscape. Given below are a few tips you can take into consideration for building a low maintenance landscape. Native plants are easier to maintain as they can adapt themselves better to their surroundings. In addition to the ease of maintenance, native plants are also easier to get and cost a lot less than their foreign counterparts.

If your area experiences heavy snowfalls, making use of snowmelt systems in your driveway and patios would be a great idea. Snowmelt systems make use of hot water tubes to melt the snow automatically saving you lots of your snow removal work. Automatic irrigation systems help you irrigate your landscape at regular intervals without your intervention. You can set up the system at first and then simply forget about it. This can make your landscape maintenance a lot easier. landscaping/low-maintanence-landscaping.html#more-7650″ class=”more-link”>(more…)

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Monday, July 21st, 2008

Clearing landscape for cottage

The branches of the 90-foot ash tree bobbed and weaved in the heavy wind while eight arborticulture students rigged up a pulley system lashing the big tree to a smaller tree across the yard of Woodbine Cottage.

Wearing orange hard hats, safety goggles and vests Hillside Landscaping , the students were preparing to cut down the tree at the president’s home next to South Dakota State University’s campus. Their teacher, John Ball, professor of forestry, wasn’t worried about the high winds.

Indeed, the wind was blowing in the direction he wanted the 12-ton tree to fall; ropes strung across the yard would help as well.

Students and faculty are refurbishing the landscaping on campus and at Woodbine Cottage, the home of SDSU President David Chicoine and his wife, Marcia. Work at the cottage will continue in phases through fall and next year. It is part of ongoing work on campus, which will include taking down several old trees, redesigning green spaces and adding more native plant and tree varieties.

Earlier this year, the class removed eight trees from the president’s property. Four of them had decay and could have survived longer, but it was prudent to remove them while the ground was being torn up and before the installation of the irrigation system, Ball says. The others were volunteer trees that were not part of any landscaping plan.

“The first step was the removal of volunteer trees and shrubs in the yard. Some have gotten fairly large. Trees have been planted by other trees, the wind and squirrels,” Ball says.

The trees will be replaced with a master landscaping plan that includes trees, shrubs, perennials, native plants and cultivars of plants developed on campus for growing locally.

The yard will become a showcase of South Dakota plants, including some introduced by SDSU’s researchers, such as the Rushmore arborvitae - Hillside Landscaping a small tree-like shrub; purple leaf sand cherry; homestead buckeye; and the nugget ninebark, a shrub with white spring flowers and a yellow-lime green leaf. Some of those plants are being used for the first time in a public area.

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Tuesday, July 1st, 2008

Gardening With Charlie Ecological Landscaping

Green is the buzzword across the country right now. Whether it’s recycling plastics, changing to energy-efficient light bulbs, or using nontoxic cleaning products, everyone seems to be looking for ways to lessen their impact on the environment. One area in which it’s easy to see immediate results is our yards. By gardening more ecologically, we can reduce pollution, create wildlife-friendly plantings, and conserve water. It’s just a matter of being smart in the yard.

Plant Trees. One of the simplest acts to reduce pollution and global warming is to grow trees. Trees absorb pollutants such as carbon monoxide and particulates. When properly placed, deciduous trees also cool houses in summer while allowing the warming sun’s rays to heat houses in winter.

Mulch Plants. To conserve water and reduce weeding, apply a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, around trees and shrubs. In dry areas use native rock or stone mulches to conserve soil moisture.

Find the Right Plant. Plant the right plant in the right location. Choose plants adapted to your growing region. Native plants are great because they are used to growing in your climate, and some produce berries for local birds. Site the plant in an area with well-drained soil and proper sun exposure. Make sure the ultimate size and shape of the plant will fit the location. There’s nothing worse than having to drastically prune a tree or shrub because it’s grown into the power lines or is blocking a window.

Grow Less Lawn. Lawns have their place in the yard. However, with a smaller lawn you’ll reduce pollution because you won’t have to use the power mower as much. A conventional gas-powered lawn mower pollutes as much in an hour of mowing as driving a car 100 miles. Try using an electric or push mower instead and plantings more trees, shrubs, and gardens.

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Wednesday, June 11th, 2008

Going Native In Your Garden

Gardening with native plants - that is, with species that grew here before the first settlers arrived from Europe - has always had its supporters, Landscaping Services but it’s a trend that’s getting stronger as part of the eco-friendly movement. Advocates argue that because native species have adapted to local conditions, they’re easier to grow, less likely to invade other parts of the garden, and require less water, pesticides and fertilizers. They also maintain that native plants are the best choice to attract birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

Does this mean we should dig up our non-native perennials and shrubs and replace them with ferns, trilliums, and maples? Not according to two Ottawa garden experts. They say that while native plants do offer advantages, the most practical approach — and sometimes the most eco-friendly — is to integrate them with non-native species, finding the best location for each plant.

“There are a lot of generalizations about native plants, but these aren’t always true,” says Eva Schmitz, owner of Artistic Landscape Design. Take the statement that native plants are hardier. “A species from a country like Russia may be just as hardy as a Canadian native, perhaps hardier,” she says. Nor are native plants necessarily less invasive.

“Some natives spread very quickly,” says Adele Courville, design centre manager at Rockcliffe Landscaping. “An aggressive, self-seeding native may be fine for a woodland area, but not for an urban garden. You can try to stop a plant from spreading by creating a barrier below the soil surface, but in time, it will over-root and won’t survive.” While she believes that native plants are the best for wildlife,

Ms. Schmitz considers this to be a generalization, too. “Birds and bees are attracted by colour and shape. They don’t avoid a plant because it’s originally from Europe or Asia.”

Rather than focusing on whether it’s native or not, both women stress the importance of picking plants that will suit their location in the garden. How well any plant does, they say, depends on whether you have the light, moisture, soil and other conditions it needs. Native white spruce, for example, flourishes

in the forest, but can’t take city pollution; red lobelia thrives in water, but will die in a dry location. “Many native Ontario plants grow in woodlands with rich,

organic soil and plenty of water and shade,” Ms. Courville notes. “They won’t succeed in dry, full sun environment.You must provide similar conditions or a native species can wind up being high maintenance.”

In the wrong space, natives may be as susceptible to disease as other plants. “If you have a native, upright phlox in an area with poor circulation, it will get mildew,” Eva Schmitz says. “Again, it’s about putting the right plant in the right location and keeping it healthy. That’s also the best way to eliminate the use of toxins such as pesticides. I don’t spray any plant.”

Besides being a practical solution for many gardens, integrating native plants with other species boosts can boost variety and visual appeal. Natives can be straggly and inconspicous-looking, and depending on the plant, may take as long as five years to bloom. “Natives that have been hybridized often provide bigger blooms,” Ms. Schmitz observes. “They may also be taller, more compact, and have stronger stems and healthier leaves. In fact, native plants can be made richer with hybridized versions.”

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Friday, May 9th, 2008

Energy Adviser Landscaping Can Keep Home Cool Bills Down

Our yard is boring with just a lot of grass. The house faces east, which means our living area in the back of the house gets hot in summer, even though I close the blinds. What kind of landscaping do you suggest that could help cool the house?

The right kind of landscaping can enhance the look of a home, offer more outdoor living space and even help cool a house in summer. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that carefully positioned trees can save up to 25 percent of a typical household’s energy used for cooling.

A well-designed yard offers environmental benefits, such as controlling erosion or limiting runoff, providing food and habitat for wildlife, and cleaning the air by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen.

Landscape design typically is site specific, but in general, deciduous trees that shade in summer and drop their leaves in winter are the best choice for shading a house. Mike Odren, landscape architect and planner for Olson Engineering in Vancouver, suggests planting a deciduous canopy tree on the southwest corner of the building if possible or along the south side that will allow for maximum shading in summer.

Tim Shull, landscape designer with Yard and Garden in Vancouver, said maples are a good choice of deciduous trees for our area.

“If the yard is small, the home owner should consider planting a more columnar tree,” he said. “Armstrong maple is a good choice because it’s narrower and fits into a smaller area.”

Exact placement of trees will depend upon where the windows are in the home, and if there are skylights or solar panels, which you’ll want to avoid shading.

Odren added that plantings around a building also will help shade it and reduce the amount of heat it absorbs and stores during the day that is radiated back during the night.

“Use organic mulch or gravel for paths and walkways rather than asphalt or concrete,” he said.

Another tip from Odren is to incorporate running water into your landscaping, which gives the perception of cooling. Install a pond or even a patio bubbler.

“If you have water somewhere around your patio, it will tend to feel cooler,” he said. “But it has to be running water. Standing water will heat right up and cause other problems, like a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes.”

Whatever you plant, choose a species that will grow to the desired size, rather than buying a fast-growing variety that you will have to prune each year.

“If you take a 40-foot tree and try to make it stay at 20 feet, Mother Nature will win,” Shull said. “Look down the road 10 years.”

And before you plant a tree, look up. If your proposed spot is near any overhead power lines, you’ll want to choose a tree that will grow no more than 25 feet tall to ensure your tree won’t cause power problems once it grows up.

Reduce lawn

Lawn is typically the least eco-friendly thing in our yards when you consider the maintenance it requires. We mow it weekly, usually using a gas-powered mower, apply moss and weed killer, feed it, and water it — just to do it all over again.

By reducing the size of the lawn and planting native plants or drought-tolerant plants, we can have a smaller impact on the environment.

“There are a number of plants out there that don’t require supplemental irrigation, such as native plants,” Odren said. “Consider alternate irrigation techniques such as drip systems or microsprays that use water more efficiently.”

Both experts recommend staying as close to native plants as possible because they thrive in our climate and are typically more disease- and pest-resistant.

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Wednesday, May 7th, 2008

Banner Daily Update

The trail at Shank Painter Pond Wildlife Sanctuary received a fresh green border of native plants on Friday, Arbor Day, with the help of a crew of Americorps volunteers.

Led by Conservation Commission co-chair Dennis Minsky and plant expert Irene Seipt, the crew toiled all morning and into the late afternoon, heaving shovelfuls of compost-enriched soil into wheelbarrows, trekking up and down the hillside to spread the dirt around and finally digging in to their pots of bearberry, bayberry, hairgrass, little bluestem grass and Pennsylvania sedge. About $5,000 worth of native shrubs and grasses were planted altogether, Minsky said.

The landscaping should help make the angular trail appear more undulating and natural, Minsky said. ConCom members had been concerned about the aesthetics of the walkway, which follows the general path that a bulldozer cleared in the hillside before the seven-and-a-half-acre parcel was rescued by the town with Land Bank funds back in 1999.

Minsky said he plans to do a complete inventory of the plants that are in the Shank Painter Pond sanctuary,  as well as other conservation areas in town, Garden Landscaping so that the ConCom can keep track of both the native and exotic elements in its jurisdiction.

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Thursday, May 1st, 2008

Growing wild penstemon species

When I moved to Grass Valley in 1992, I bought a house, which was surrounded by two acres of old overgrown manzanita. A fire trap to be sure. After hiring a brush-clearing firm, Hillside Landscaping I was left with an acre of bare red dirt and a few scattered oaks trees.

I immediately set to work transforming this barren landscape into a garden. I put up a deer fence and built a path system-all the while thinking about what I would plant in my new garden. Because I have a low output well, I was restricted to drought tolerant plants. And because I wanted to create an eco-friendly garden, I chose to plant California native plants.

I decided to experiment with as many different species of penstemon as possible. I had observed several spectacular species in the wild and hoped they would grow well in the garden. My research told me that wild penstemons are tricky to grow and can be short-lived in the garden. Their primary requirement is well draining soil and many of them require minimal irrigation. For those gardeners with poorly drained clay soil, one solution is to import a good sandy loam from a soil vendor and mound it up on top of the existing soil. Both Eaton’s penstemon (P. eatonii) and P. pseudospectabils have thrived in my garden on mounded sandy loam soil. They receive morning sun and are shaded by tall pines in the afternoon. Both these plants form sprawling clumps and have semi-upright stems with tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds. Eaton’s penstemon has red flowers and P. pseudospectabils has outrageous red/pink/pruple flowers that defy description. Both are native to mountainous areas of the southwestern states, but can flourish here in the foothills.

The trick when watering penstemons is to give them enough to keep them looking fresh through the summer, but not too much, otherwise you can kill them with kindness. Many of the penstemon species that inhabit dry desert and mountain habitat in the Southwest, can survive the summer without irrigation once they are established in the garden. But after a long dry summer without water they will look pretty ratty. A more practical solution is create a semi-dry border by combining penstemon species with wild buckwheats, monkey flowers, California poppies, salvias and other drought-tolerant native plants and drip irrigating once every ten days in the summer, beginning in May. This will keep your plants looking fresh and extend their bloom well into the summer. In the Sierra foothills of Nevada and Placer Counties, azure penstemon (P. azureus) and foothill penstemon (P. heterophyllus) are native wildflowers. A hybrid of these two species called Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP’ is one of the easiest penstemons for garden culture. This hybrid was discovered next to the back porch at Las Pilitas nursery in Santa Margarita, Calif-thus its name Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP.’ It forms an evergreen, 3-ft wide sprawling mound covered with masses of tubular blue and purple flowers. Dave Roberts, President of EcoLandscape California, a non-profit ecological landscaping organization, grows P. ‘Margarita BOP’ in his Sacramento garden. He grows it in sandy soil and waters it once a week during the summer, beginning in May, which keeps the plant blooming and looking fresh through the summer.

Several penstemon species have persisted and thrived in my garden without any special improvement of soil drainage. They are all planted in full sun on a west-facing slope. Beginning in May, they are drip irrigated once every two weeks through their first summer after being planted in the garden. During subsequent years, I water them sparingly through July and then cease watering for the rest of the summer.

My hand’s down favorite has been Penstemon incertus. I grew it from seed that I purchased from the Theodore Payne Foundation in southern California.

The plant is clump-forming with multiple 2-foot tall stems, grey green foliage and beautiful blue/purple tubular flowers. It is easy to propagate from cuttings and seed and is now abundant in my garden. My original plant is still thriving after four years. Royal penstemon (P. spectabilis) has also thrived in my garden without soil improvement. This is a gorgeous three-foot tall clump-forming plant. When in full bloom it is covered with blue, pink and purple flowers and buzzing with visiting honey bees. Grinnell’s beard tongue (P. grennellii) also grows on a hot,Hillside Landscaping rocky slope in my garden. It reaches about two feet in height and has multiple stems with coarsely-toothed shiny green leaves. It has puffy balloon-shaped flowers that are lightly scented and colored pink with delicate mauve tracings. This species is very sensitive to over-watering and should not be irrigated in summer. I recommend planting this plant in a sandy loam of decomposed granite soil if possible.

I have also experimented with several species of keckiella, which are the shrubby cousins of the perennial penstemons. They are sometimes called bush penstemons. My resident hummingbird loves the scarlet-colored tubular flowers heartleaf keckiella (K. cordifolia) in my garden. Bees favor the snapdragon-like flowers of yellow keckiella (K. antirrhinoides) in my garden.

All the penstemon species are very easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. I usually leave the spent blooms on some of the stems so that seed pods can develop. I harvest the seed and sow it in pots in the fall so that it is watered by winter rains. The seedlings germinate en masse in early spring. I transplant these directly into the garden or into 4 inch pots-in which case, I grow them through the summer and then plant them into the garden in fall.

Cuttings are easier. I usually wait until February and then cut year-old stems back to sprouting buds near the base of the stems. Then I cut the pruned off stems into 6-inch long sections, and stick these directly into the ground around the parent plants. With a little extra water, these cuttings root quickly and easily. In this way, as older plants die off, new young ones grow up to replace them.

All of these penstemon and bush penstemon species (plus many other California native trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses) will be available for purchase at the Spring Native Plant Sale and Wildflower Show at the Rocklin campus of Sierra College (Parking Lot S) on Saturday, May 3rd from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm.

Quantities of some of these are limited, so come early for the best selection. There will be a special presentation “Wildflowers of Placer and Nevada Counties - Where to See ‘em and How to Grow ‘em” before the sale at 9 am.

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Sunday, April 27th, 2008

On The Job Training For Project Managera

Shannon Peisert never dreamed she would be a project manager for a big commercial development, but she has been one now for about a year.

She is part of the Rogers family that owns Rogers Sporting Goods and is building Rogers Plaza on A Highway in Liberty.

Until now, she had spent her life selling sporting goods at the Rogers store on Missouri Highway 291, but now much of her time is spent as project manager.

“I keep telling myself I want to go back to just retail,” she said. “That’s what I know best. As project manager, I spend a lot of time just learning the language.”

She said it was fun picking out colors for the new location and deciding landscaping issues.

“I just want it to be beautiful,” she said. “We are concentrating on using a lot of native plants for the landscaping part.”

But all has not been smooth, the topography was uneven.

“We have a lot of high spots and a lot of low spots, and we found a lot more rock that we expected,” she said. “We also found a lot of utilities running through the property that had to be moved. The city was a great help with that.”

She credited her contractor for offering a lot of support.

She was in charge of hiring the construction team and settled on Larry Brown Excavating. She also was responsible for selecting the tenants who will occupy the shopping center. One of those will likely be a hotel.

She is one of three children in the Rogers family.

“I guess I was chosen because I was the only one that agreed to do it,” she said. “But my father has been helpful. He helps me along when I need it. My husband, Vince, is in construction, and he helps me when I don’t know the answers.”

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Thursday, April 3rd, 2008

Mimosa How to grow

Mary Keen offers her expert advice on growing the bright yellow Mimosa In Rome in February the florists sell bunches of mimosa below the Spanish Steps. Bright yellow puffs of flowers dangle from the silvery branches, and they smell of southern spring. Yellow fever: Acacia dealbata is high and handsomeLast year I brought a bunch home and kept it in a vase. By the time the flowers had darkened and the scent faded, our own spring had started. I have grown Acacia dealbata in London (Shepherds Bush ), in Berkshire, near Reading, and in the West Country. But although I planted a tree here, in Gloucestershire, two years ago against the south wall of the house, it has still not flowered. This doesn’t matter because the leaves are lovely all year, especially in winter, and the tree is high and handsome. It already reaches above the second floor windows and its feathery branches are beautiful. The type I have is meant to be hardier and its flowers are paler - lemon rather than egg-yolk yellow. This is a variety which naturally occurs at high altitude (Acacia dealbata var. subalpina), so I may be lucky this year, but mimosa is probably not something to try out of doors north of the Trent, unless the weather really warms up.Acacias, so rare and desirable for those in the Northern Hemisphere, are native plants of Australia, where they are called silver wattle (because their pliable wood was used for the wattle and daub houses built by early settlers). There they grow to 30m (100ft) and are classed as an invasive species. But 6m (20ft) is more likely here and there is currently no risk of a mimosa invasion.They are also common Mediterranean types and, even if they will not flower, they provide leaves of such beauty that florists use them as backing for bouquets all year round.Growing tipsAcacia dealbata will survive a couple of bursts of frost of up to -10C but it does not thrive in cold places. The variety subalpina is hardier than the type. If the mimosa is cut down by cold weather, it should regrow from the base as a multi-stem. This can be useful in places where there is not enough room for a full size tree. All new growth is more susceptible to cold weather than old, so protecting the plant for the first two years will help it to survive. Protection is also needed for the regrowth after the mimosa has been cut to the ground.The ideal soil for a mimosa is neutral to acid, which is why the leaves on my tree grown in limy conditions are often yellow. This can be remedied with doses of the iron tonic Sequestrene, to keep the leaves bluey grey.Old specimens prefer not to be pruned but Acacia dealbata is fast-growing. Thus, if the plant outgrows its position (or is frozen to death), it will not be too long before a replacement grows to a respectable size. Like all tender shrubs, the mimosa is best planted in the spring, after all danger of frosts has passed, so as to give its wood the longest possible ripening period before the first winter.Mimosas make good conservatory plants for large pots, but they should be watered very sparingly in winter.PropagationAcacia dealbata can be raised from seed but, because this is a seed triggered by fire in its native habitat, boiling water has to do the trick here. Pour the water over the seeds and leave them to soak for a day, until they have softened and plumped up. Cuttings also root easily. It is worth taking some of the hardier form subalpina, if you are lucky enough to obtain it, as this will not come true from seed.Good companionsIt might be time for a revival of greys and silvers. Groups of these were a fashionable choice in the 1960s when Mrs Desmond Underwood sold nothing else. A well-drained sunny corner of a town garden (helped by the addition of plenty of grit) would look very classy with the following: a bush of mimosa behind long flowering lavenders from Lanzarote; Lavandula x christiana ‘Sky’; plenty of Iris pallida subsp. pallida; one or two rosemary ‘Severn Sea’; some Dianthus ‘Haytor White’; and a few Senecio cineraria ‘Cirrus’. Underplanted with tender narcissus and Gladiolus murielae, the scent would be heavenly too. Cold-country gardeners would kill for such a scheme.Where to buyPan-Global Plants of Frampton-on-Severn, Glos (01452 741641; www.panglobalplants.com) lists the rare Acacia dealbata var. subalpina.Duchy of Cornwall Nursery, Lostwithiel, Cornwall (01208 872668, www.duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk) can supply A. dealbata.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Welcoming the birds

Gardening and bird-watching go hand in hand, and bird feeders, birdbaths and birdhouses give you a chance to add sculptural elements to your yard and help the birds, too.

As you learn to recognize more and more birds in your backyard, you’ll also develop a deeper appreciation for your garden as a natural habitat.

“That’s part of the joy of the experience noticing the details,” says Jonathan Alderfer, chief consultant for National Geographic’s birding program and co-author of the new “Birding Essentials.”

“If you’re actively looking for birds, you see everything more clearly,” Alderfer says. He has been watching birds for about 30 years, and he never grows tired of it.

The winter months are a great time to study backyard birds and to get to know your resident bird population. A well-placed bird feeder is all you need to get started, but once you have experienced the pleasure of watching a little wren hop from the fence to the suet feeder and back, or after a family of bright red cardinals stop by for a lunch of sunflower seeds, you may want more than a single feeder. Different kinds of feeders will also attract a greater variety of birds.

Garden shops have expanded their selections of bird-friendly garden decorations in the past few years, as have mail-order garden specialists.

“We added this category about 10 years ago, and it’s grown every year,” says Cindy Goodenow at Gardener’s Supply Co. (gardeners.com). Customers are looking for bird feeders and accessories that are both functional and decorative, Goodenow says. Feeders that look like cattails and corncobs are big sellers.

“Customers like color,” she says, “and they like the rustic look, too.” Goodenow says the company was surprised by the response when it offered colorful birdhouses in three summery hues for $30 each, with a special price of $79 for all three.

“People are going for all three,” she says. “They’re outselling the individual houses.”

Goodenow has five bird feeders and a birdbath in her backyard in Vermont.

“For me it’s just a natural thing,” she says. “Gardeners are in tune with nature, and the birds are part of that.”

Like European houses and refrigerators, European bird feeders tend to be smaller than American models, Goodenow says. In Europe, small feeders are replenished frequently. Americans like big hopper or tube feeders that hold a lot of seed or suet.

Alderfer lives in Washington, D.C., and watches birds from the window of his studio, where he paints and sketches birds. His garden is planted with hollies, pine trees, flowering shrubs and perennial plants that produce berries or seeds that attract birds.

“Every year I mow a little less and let the plants creep in farther,” he says. “Every year, I have less lawn and more wild areas.”

As an artist, Alderfer appreciates the visual appeal of a lawn, but as a bird-watcher, he knows that lawn has little appeal.

“I’m paying more attention to habitat,” he says. Asters, coneflowers and beebalm, which all attract butterflies, also are great bird plants. Finches and chickadees eat the seeds of asters and coneflowers, and hummingbirds will visit beebalm all summer long.

Alderfer has a plain, flat platform feeder for black-oil sunflower seed, a tube feeder for niger seed (also called nyjer or thistle) and a suet feeder. From spring until late in the fall, he also feeds hummingbirds.

Squirrels, sparrows, starlings and mourning doves all take their share of birdseed in the winter, and that’s all right with Alderfer. His favorite birds are the woodpeckers, but watching common birds like sparrows develops your observation skills.

“If you concentrate on the common birds first, then you’ll know when you’re seeing something different,” Alderfer says.

Birdhouses (the experts call them nesting boxes) will let you observe the nesting habits of many birds. Alderfer has nesting boxes for wrens and chickadees in his garden. When a branch dies in one of his trees, he leaves it there (unless it is a menace) for the woodpeckers, titmice and other cavity-nesting birds.

This winter he put up a new nesting box for screech owls. Nesting sites for these little owls can be scarce in the big city, but they willingly move into an appropriately placed box.

“I’d love to have a family of screech owls as neighbors,” Alderfer says. “They’re up all night, but they mind their own business.”

Bring on the birds

Jonathan Alderfer is co-author of the new “National Geographic Birding Essentials” (nationalgeographic.com, $16) and of National Geographic’s “Field Guide to the Birds of North America” ($24). He is also the editor of National Geographic’s “Complete Birds of North America” ($35). He keeps a list of the birds that visit his backyard in Washington, D.C., and about 140 species have visited his garden so far. Here are some of his ideas and suggestions for gardeners and bird-watchers at every level.

Place feeders where you can see them from the windows. “You can get great looks even without binoculars,” Alderfer says. If you don’t have a feeder, just sprinkle seed on the ground or on a patio.

When you want to look closer and learn more, it’s time for a pair of binoculars and a field guide. “Birding Essentials” offers advice on choosing binoculars, or you can search the Internet for “Cornell” and “binoculars” for an article from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology (birds.cornell.edu) on birding binoculars of all kinds.

Garden for the birds. Plant native plants because that’s what the birds are adapted to, and remember to include evergreens for shelter from wind and weather during the winter.

Water attracts birds. A heated birdbath will bring birds to your yard even in the dead of winter. In spring and summer, a dripper attachment or a battery-operated “water wiggler” (sold at bird specialty shops) will make your birdbath more visible to birds.

Alderfer suggests making a pinhole in the bottom of a one-gallon milk jug, filling it with water and hanging it from a shepherd’s-crook pole (available at garden shops) or a branch above a birdbath. “It will drip for hours,” he says. “It attracts birds that don’t come to water that often, like vireos and warblers and thrushes.”

Don’t forget the hummingbirds. A hummingbird feeder will bring these tiny birds right up to your window. “You get quite a show,” Alderfer says, “and kids love them.”

Take it all in. “Birding isn’t just about identifying birds,” Alderfer says. “It’s about the natural world that you live in in your own backyard, in your county, in your state. As you become educated about the natural world, conservation becomes important. Get involved.”

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Saturday, January 19th, 2008