Even when Yale’s Harkness Tower carillon isn’t chiming and New Haven’s church bells aren’t ringing, there are centuries worth of echoes in this old Connecticut city and its famous university. Part of the fun is listening for those reverberations among the hubbub of modern life.
Yale, of course, vibrates with its own past-present connectivity. The anemic little Collegiate School that couldn’t quite get off the ground in Saybrook got a real boost when Englishman Elihu Yale donated 400 books, 500 pounds and a portrait of King George.
The town of New Haven offered a plot of land and tax-free status, so the trustees voted in 1716 to move the school to New Haven, “a very Convenient place for it, and for which the Most Liberal Donations are given.”
“Yale was at sea and died before he got news that they’d renamed the school for him,” Leland Milstein, an American studies major from Stratford, Conn., tells our little campus tour group. “He left the majority of his money to Collegiate College.” The Catch-22? Yale couldn’t inherit the money with its new name.
The campus tour bubbles with fun tidbits. The doors of the 1750 Connecticut Hall, New Haven’s oldest building, were expanded to 1 1/2 times their original size to accommodate one of Yale’s most prominent grads, William Howard Taft. The 300-pounder was one of Yale’s five presidents; the university is proud to have “produced,” as it says, four of the past six commanders in chief.
Opposite Old Campus, the bells of Harkness Tower chime out each afternoon. Architect Frank Lloyd Wright took one look at the Gothic extravaganza and proclaimed that if he could live anywhere at Yale, it would be in Harkness %26mdash; so he wouldn’t have to look at it.
Students run the Harkness carillon, so you might hear “Rubber Ducky” or “Stairway to Heaven” played on its celestial bells.
On a more serious note, the tour pauses at the bronze of Nathan Hale, his chest proudly thrust forward. An Eli from the Class of 1773, he was hanged in New York as America’s first spy.
Although Hale has since become Connecticut’s state hero, “he wasn’t the brightest spy,” Milstein ventured. “He was in a bar and spilled his mission to the British Army.” Hale was carrying his Yale diploma as part of his schoolteacher cover.
The rumor still swirls that CIA special ops, thwarted in their request to move the statue to their Virginia headquarters, once scaled the wall and made a copy under cover of nightfall.
Mystery deepens at the gloomy gate of Skull and Crossbones, the secret society to which both presidents Bush belong. The official campus tour skips this macabre, controversial part of campus lore %26mdash; did “Bonesmen” rob the grave of Geronimo, for instance, and bring his skull to Yale? Do they perform occult rites? Just ask a local to point out the Tomb.
The tone is more upbeat, of course, at the visitor center in Pierpont House. This is a two-for-one treat, a fun timeline of the school set inside New Haven’s oldest surviving house. Even if you’re not bowled over by the stuffed remains of the Yale mascot, bulldog Handsome Dan II, you might admire the beautiful wainscoting, 12-over-12 windows and massive hearths of this 1767 Georgian Colonial beauty.
Handsome Dan II, who roused the team and fans from 1933 to 1937, is immortalized because Yale was the first college to have a mascot. The original Handsome Dan, purchased as a grimy puppy from a blacksmith’s shop in 1889, trotted alongside his freshman owner at football and baseball games.
Dan I now rests in what peace he can grasp in his mighty jaws inside the Payne Whitney Gym. It’s a majestic space, parts of which were inspired by Liverpool Cathedral %26mdash; it was elegantly dubbed “the Cathedral of Sweat” when it opened in 1932.
The canine inspired alum Cole Porter (Yale 1913) to write the fight song, “Bull-Dog, Bull-Dog, Bow, wow, wow” and dog and school have been inseparable ever since.
Yale has marked many a first, including the first college football team to reach 800 victories, in 2000. Grad Walker Camp (Yale 1880) is credited with developing football from rugby.
Yale, now with a student body of 10,000, was also America’s first planned college campus, in 1792. It started the first college daily newspaper, the Yale Daily News, in 1878, and appointed America’s first professor of paleontology, Othniel C. Marsh (Yale 1860).
Marsh brings us to the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History, established by his uncle, financier George Peabody. With giant rooms of dinosaurs and anthropological collections from around the world, this is one of the most popular stops at Yale. The feel of the dark Victorian gothic building suits the bones.
Much of the early campus was built in collegiate gothic style, but two modern buildings attract architecture and art students from around the world. In a rare juxtaposition, architect Louis Kahn’s career is neatly encapsulated in two buildings that face each other across Chapel Street.
Kahn’s first major work, a 1953 modernist addition to the Yale University Art Gallery, has just been renovated, restoring his original open plan.
His last commission, the Yale Center for British Art, opens up a new world of breezy corridors, fresh sightlines and surprising angles. Completed in 1977 after Kahn’s death, the skylighted building of white oak and travertine marble gleams with the most comprehensive collection of British art outside Great Britain.
After two back-to-back galleries, it’s time for a break, and since this is college, it has to be pizza.
But be ready for a fight. “If New Haven didn’t invent pizza, I guarantee they have the world’s best,” campus guide Milstein contended. “It’s either Sally or Pepe’s, but it’s like having two home teams %26mdash; you can’t love them both. I’m a lifelong Sally’s guy.”
Fans think nothing of queuing for an hour or more just to reach the door of these pizzerias in Wooster Square’s Little Italy neighborhood. On weekends, hop in line by midafternoon or fuggitaboutit.
Or, there’s always Louis’ Lunch, which some credit with the creation of the hamburger in 1900.
Some people argue the title, but most are content to watch fourth-generation grill meister Jeff Lassen toast the bread and broil the fresh meat vertically on the family’s original cast-iron grill. Cheese, tomato and onion are part of the package, but don’t look for ketchup, mustard or fries %26mdash; you’ll never get them at Louis’.
And for a not-so-light finale? How about Lithuanian coffee cake at Claire’s Corner Copia, a vegetarian and kosher hangout since 1975. The bundt cake, massive as a wedge of iceberg, hides brewed coffee, sour cream, nuts, cinnamon and raisins under that butter cream frosting.
Claire’s may be the perfect spot to start the day, sipping tea under the hand painted sunburst ceiling, or to wrap it up, tucked against a window on the dimming world outside.
In this little hippie cocoon, it’s a cozy spot to watch the parade of Birkenstocks and bow ties that is Yale and New Haven.
IF YOU GO
Getting there
Expect to pay $180 or more round-trip airfare from Atlanta to New York; expect to pay about $320 to New Haven, Conn.
About New Haven, Yale
New Haven is Connecticut’s third-largest city, with about 123,000 people. Settled in 1638, it’s the first planned city in the United States.
The city is 70 miles north of New York City; it’s about 75 minutes by train to New Haven’s Union Station. The Tweed-New Haven Airport is 10 minutes by car from downtown. Information: 1-800-332-7829, www.visitnewhaven.com.
Yale University, the third oldest in the United States, is New Haven’s largest employer and taxpayer, with about 10,000 faculty, professionals and staff %26mdash; roughly the size of its student body. To join a free daily tour of Yale University, led by a student: 203-432-2300, www.yale.edu/visitor.
Where to stay
%26#8226; Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale, 155 Temple St., New Haven. Doubles from $239. 203-772-6664, www.omninewhaven.com.
%26#8226; Swan Cove Bed and Breakfast, 115 Sea St., New Haven. Doubles from $149. 203-776-3240, www.swancove.com.
%26#8226; The Historic Mansion Inn, 600 Chapel St., New Haven. Doubles from $139. 1-888-512-6278, www.thehistoricmansioninn.com.
%26#8226; Touch of Ireland Guest House, 670 Whitney Ave., New Haven. Doubles from $125. 1-866-787-7990,
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house.com.
Where to eat
%26#8226; Consiglio’s 165 Wooster St., New Haven. Average entree, $18-$20. 203-865-4489, www.consiglios.com.
%26#8226; Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana, 157 Wooster St., New Haven. Traditional brick-oven pies. Average entree, $18-$20. 203-865-5762, www.pepespizzeria.com.
%26#8226; Pacifico, 220 College St., New Haven. Average entree, $18-$20. 203-772-4002.
%26#8226; Ibiza, 39 High St., New Haven. Wine Spectator calls it “one of the best Spanish restaurants in the United States.” Average entree, $18-$20. 203-865-1933, www.ibizanewhaven.com.
%26#8226; Sally’s Apizza, 237 Wooster St., New Haven. Pizzas from a coal-fired brick oven. Average entree up to $15. 203-624-5271.
%26#8226; Louis’ Lunch, 263 Crown St., New Haven. The tiny, atmospheric home of a grilled fresh-meat hamburger sandwich since 1900. Average entree up to $15. Cash only. 203-562-5507, www.louislunch.com.
%26#8226; Atticus Bookstore and Cafe, 1082 Chapel St., New Haven. “Millions of scones sold since 1981.” Bread from New Haven’s Chabaso bakery, famous for its crusty ciabatta. Average entree up to $15. 203-776-4040.
%26#8226; Claire’s Corner Copia, 1000 Chapel St., New Haven. A creative vegetarian and kosher menu. Average entree up to $15. 203-562-3888, www.clairescornercopia.com.
Betsa Marsh, author of “The Eccentric Traveler: A World of Curious Adventures,” is a winner of a Lowell Thomas Award from the Society of American Travel Writers.
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