Lettuce and Tomatoes in the Spring Garden

With the redbuds, daffodils, dogwoods and hellebores starting to bloom, master gardener Paul James knows that spring has sprung. That means there are some chores to be done in his vegetable garden:

When Paul started planting his lettuce crops about one month ago, he planned to maximize the harvest by planting the lettuce seed in succession. The first crop was planted four weeks and is now ready to harvest (figure A). The next stand was planted a week later (figure B). The last crop was planted just two weeks ago and has at least a couple more weeks of growing to do before it too is ready to go to the dinner table (figure C).

This is a perfect example of succession sowing, or staggering the planting times of a crop (figure D). It’s an important growing technique that gives you the opportunity to enjoy fresh veggies, such as lettuce, over a longer period of time. “If I’d planted all this lettuce at once, I’d be inundated, and much of it would either go to waste or wind up on my neighbor’s salad plate, rather than mine,” says Paul. (more…)

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Tuesday, July 22nd, 2008

Stones Rewarded For Yard Work

landscaping.gif”>The yard of Rick and Terry Stone, 1803 E. Howard St., has been named the June 2008 Yard of the Month by the Beautification Committee of the Pontiac Area Chamber of Commerce.

The Stones have resided in the house they built 14 years ago and every year has led to a little more of their landscaping touches.

While not too much of the front yard can be seen because of a privacy hedge along Illinois 116, the open areas at both ends of the curved driveway give a glimpse of the beauty within.

“While the hedge does shut off a lot of view it also has its advantages in that it cuts down a lot of traffic noise from the roadway,” said Terry Stone.

One thing that cannot be overlooked is the unique driveway paving material chosen by the Stones. The off-red gravel-looking material is named “rotten granite” and gives the large curving driveway its own special soft color very different from routine run-of-the-mill white or gray gravel.

Knock-out roses in a deep red are repeated throughout the yard along the front, back and side.

“The roses have done so well and bloomed so profusely this year. I have lots of daffodils which did not bloom that well this year and I was afraid other perennials might follow the same course,” she said. “Instead what a pleasant surprise it has been with the roses and a few others, including the purple perennial salvia.”

“I have also been a little disappointed that more perennials like black-eyed Susans and purple coneflowers are so much later this year. I’m guessing the cold and wet spring has put everything a little behind,” she said.

Rick Stone’s project this spring has been starting some maple trees from maple “helicopter” seeds that blew into the yard.

“While the seedlings look good, they are still small, it’s too early to tell how they will do once set into the landscape as trees,” she said.

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Monday, June 16th, 2008

Growing wild penstemon species

When I moved to Grass Valley in 1992, I bought a house, which was surrounded by two acres of old overgrown manzanita. A fire trap to be sure. After hiring a brush-clearing firm, Hillside Landscaping I was left with an acre of bare red dirt and a few scattered oaks trees.

I immediately set to work transforming this barren landscape into a garden. I put up a deer fence and built a path system-all the while thinking about what I would plant in my new garden. Because I have a low output well, I was restricted to drought tolerant plants. And because I wanted to create an eco-friendly garden, I chose to plant California native plants.

I decided to experiment with as many different species of penstemon as possible. I had observed several spectacular species in the wild and hoped they would grow well in the garden. My research told me that wild penstemons are tricky to grow and can be short-lived in the garden. Their primary requirement is well draining soil and many of them require minimal irrigation. For those gardeners with poorly drained clay soil, one solution is to import a good sandy loam from a soil vendor and mound it up on top of the existing soil. Both Eaton’s penstemon (P. eatonii) and P. pseudospectabils have thrived in my garden on mounded sandy loam soil. They receive morning sun and are shaded by tall pines in the afternoon. Both these plants form sprawling clumps and have semi-upright stems with tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds. Eaton’s penstemon has red flowers and P. pseudospectabils has outrageous red/pink/pruple flowers that defy description. Both are native to mountainous areas of the southwestern states, but can flourish here in the foothills.

The trick when watering penstemons is to give them enough to keep them looking fresh through the summer, but not too much, otherwise you can kill them with kindness. Many of the penstemon species that inhabit dry desert and mountain habitat in the Southwest, can survive the summer without irrigation once they are established in the garden. But after a long dry summer without water they will look pretty ratty. A more practical solution is create a semi-dry border by combining penstemon species with wild buckwheats, monkey flowers, California poppies, salvias and other drought-tolerant native plants and drip irrigating once every ten days in the summer, beginning in May. This will keep your plants looking fresh and extend their bloom well into the summer. In the Sierra foothills of Nevada and Placer Counties, azure penstemon (P. azureus) and foothill penstemon (P. heterophyllus) are native wildflowers. A hybrid of these two species called Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP’ is one of the easiest penstemons for garden culture. This hybrid was discovered next to the back porch at Las Pilitas nursery in Santa Margarita, Calif-thus its name Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP.’ It forms an evergreen, 3-ft wide sprawling mound covered with masses of tubular blue and purple flowers. Dave Roberts, President of EcoLandscape California, a non-profit ecological landscaping organization, grows P. ‘Margarita BOP’ in his Sacramento garden. He grows it in sandy soil and waters it once a week during the summer, beginning in May, which keeps the plant blooming and looking fresh through the summer.

Several penstemon species have persisted and thrived in my garden without any special improvement of soil drainage. They are all planted in full sun on a west-facing slope. Beginning in May, they are drip irrigated once every two weeks through their first summer after being planted in the garden. During subsequent years, I water them sparingly through July and then cease watering for the rest of the summer.

My hand’s down favorite has been Penstemon incertus. I grew it from seed that I purchased from the Theodore Payne Foundation in southern California.

The plant is clump-forming with multiple 2-foot tall stems, grey green foliage and beautiful blue/purple tubular flowers. It is easy to propagate from cuttings and seed and is now abundant in my garden. My original plant is still thriving after four years. Royal penstemon (P. spectabilis) has also thrived in my garden without soil improvement. This is a gorgeous three-foot tall clump-forming plant. When in full bloom it is covered with blue, pink and purple flowers and buzzing with visiting honey bees. Grinnell’s beard tongue (P. grennellii) also grows on a hot,Hillside Landscaping rocky slope in my garden. It reaches about two feet in height and has multiple stems with coarsely-toothed shiny green leaves. It has puffy balloon-shaped flowers that are lightly scented and colored pink with delicate mauve tracings. This species is very sensitive to over-watering and should not be irrigated in summer. I recommend planting this plant in a sandy loam of decomposed granite soil if possible.

I have also experimented with several species of keckiella, which are the shrubby cousins of the perennial penstemons. They are sometimes called bush penstemons. My resident hummingbird loves the scarlet-colored tubular flowers heartleaf keckiella (K. cordifolia) in my garden. Bees favor the snapdragon-like flowers of yellow keckiella (K. antirrhinoides) in my garden.

All the penstemon species are very easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. I usually leave the spent blooms on some of the stems so that seed pods can develop. I harvest the seed and sow it in pots in the fall so that it is watered by winter rains. The seedlings germinate en masse in early spring. I transplant these directly into the garden or into 4 inch pots-in which case, I grow them through the summer and then plant them into the garden in fall.

Cuttings are easier. I usually wait until February and then cut year-old stems back to sprouting buds near the base of the stems. Then I cut the pruned off stems into 6-inch long sections, and stick these directly into the ground around the parent plants. With a little extra water, these cuttings root quickly and easily. In this way, as older plants die off, new young ones grow up to replace them.

All of these penstemon and bush penstemon species (plus many other California native trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses) will be available for purchase at the Spring Native Plant Sale and Wildflower Show at the Rocklin campus of Sierra College (Parking Lot S) on Saturday, May 3rd from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm.

Quantities of some of these are limited, so come early for the best selection. There will be a special presentation “Wildflowers of Placer and Nevada Counties - Where to See ‘em and How to Grow ‘em” before the sale at 9 am.

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Sunday, April 27th, 2008

Sorting out autumnal problems in the garden

The excellent summer we have had has given us great gardens, being one of the best years for tomatoes, cucumbers, capsicums, flowers, the list goes on. Good growing times also means an abundance of insect pests, such as whitefly, leaf hoppers, caterpillars, the list goes on.
Now we have reached a seasonal change not only can we enjoy a bountiful harvest but we may have a big insect pest problem to boot.
Pest insects breed very quickly, with females laying a few to several hundred eggs during their short lives. When one starts off in spring and the insect populations are beginning for the new season, it is a relatively simple matter to use natural controls to keep the populations low.
When a whitefly flits around newly planted tomatoes in the spring, there will be many not seen.
Ignore the sighting and a week or two later there will be a few more. If the potential problem is ignored, within another few weeks it will be much more difficult to control.
On the other hand, some gardeners take the first sighting as a warning and act on it. But even these gardeners can fall foul of a major problem looming, invasions of insect pests from other non-treated areas of the garden or in many cases from garden next door.
No matter whether its whitefly or any other insect pest, a good summer will allow massive insect populations to build and then invade your preferred plants as their previous host plants become over-populated or destroyed.
Keep knocking down as many of the pests as possible. The fewer pests to winter over, the fewer problems at the beginning of next season.
Two natural products combined and sprayed just on dusk will help reduce the problems, now and in the future. They are Neem Tree Oil with Key Pyrethrum added.
(You can include Raingard with them for a longer control residual.) Another excellent method of upsetting insect pests is the hose if watering by hand.
I remember as a child watching gardeners watering their gardens late in the day, not only would they moisten the soil but often would turn the nozzle of their hose to a jet and blast the foliage of their plants.
This simple method would wash many insect pests off the plants on to the ground where they would either drown or be unable to get back up on to their host plants.
Watering each evening by hand is a great time to check plants for possible problems, which would not be so noticeable otherwise. A combination of spraying and water jetting will keep insect populations down. Use the spray products mentioned above, late in the day after the garden soil has been watered with a hand-held wand. Only water the soil for the next couple of days then on the third day blast the foliage of the plants with a jet strong enough to wash off many insect pests but not strong enough to damage the plants. Repeat this for the following three days then spray with the products on the seventh evening.
Autumn is also the time when plant diseases come to the fore.
Black spot, rust and mildews abound on plants such as roses and this is part of nature and the natural cycle for older annuals and deciduous plants. They are finishing for the year and the foliage has to be broken down, to be recycled into the soil. Young freshly planted plants can be protected against mildews using a heaped tablespoon of baking soda to 1l of warm water with 1mil of Raingard added. Dont worry about picking up dying leaves off the ground to assist in preventing disease re-occurrence next spring.
Instead, spray the dying leaves and soil with Mycorrcin to aid the breakdown of the organic matter and increase the beneficial soil life.
Autumn is also the time to harvest seeds from your annuals and other plants for planting next spring.
Seeds from seeding vegetables such as tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, etc, are easy to collect and dry on a south-facing windowsill.
For silverbeet, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, etc, let one of the best looking plants go to seed.
Study the flowers and work out the seed pod bit to collect the seeds.
If unsure, place a small plastic bag over a flower as it is finishing flowering. Tie the bag on to the stem so that the seeds will fall into it when mature. If the bag starts to fill with condensation make a couple of small holes in the top.
Once the seeds have been collected and dried, place them in a lock-type small plastic bag with the name of seed-plant and then put the plastic bags into a sealed glass jar and store in the fridge. Seeds can keep well for several years in this way and as they are chilled, they germinate readily when sown.
With the likelyhood of a mild winter it is not too late to plant out seedlings of green vegetables for winter harvesting. Silverbeet, winter-type lettuce, cabbages and other brassicas can be planted out now (not so for areas prone to early frosts).
Speed up their growth while daylight hours are still reasonable.
With the cost of things going up it pays to have a good garden of vegetables to pick.
Problems? Contact Wally Richards: PO Box 489, Palmerston North. Phone: 0800-466464 E-mail: wallyjr@gardenews.co.nz

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Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Looking back at summer

Quirky or coincidental, good rain fell right at the end, which, you might argue, is a fitting finale or not.
Late spring frosts, weeks of low or nil rainfall and water restrictions for many have contributed to an unrewarding and frustrating season.
Spin-offs have been few and far between. The lawnmower has hardly seen the light of day. Those contracted to mow the verges in our village have had an easy time of it, which makes up for all the years that the grass fountains out of ground and keeping on top of it is a challenge of the sappier sort.
Moving into autumn usually translates into steadily falling ground temperatures and slowing growth but, judging by the regeneration of plants that I hacked back because of drought, I think it will be a while before autumn makes itself felt.
Hope springs eternal.
Positives can be counted on one hand.
I have cultivated tomatoes both in and out of the glasshouse and, for the first time ever, have grown a watermelon. Cucumbers and basil have been prolific and Ive still got enough aubergines coming on to sink a battleship. My first ripe Brandywine tomato weighed in at 350g, so, bearing in mind there are at least 12 plants outside and several in the glasshouse, you can take it as read that tomato relish, bottled tomatoes, tomato sauce and pureed tomatoes will be on the menu for quite some time.
The pumpkin has had to be severely curtailed because of its rampant growth; in fact it was making a dash for the greenhouse door.
The gravel drive is currently playing host to a multitude of seedlings. Over the years Ive noted that during periods of prolonged dry weather gravel seems to be an ideal place for seeds to get a toehold. It would be fair to say that currently I have more seedlings growing in the drive than in the garden.
Nature is a whimsical old girl.
Parsley, chives, antirrhinums, pansies, campanulas (various) and Ladys Mantle are flourishing and tree seedlings eucalypts, maples and pines are steadily putting on growth. I may abandon the notion of a drive and opt for a machete.
In complete contrast to the rigours of my gardening summer, a recent trip to Gore was a delight.
Indeed, I would like to present a bouquet to the Gore District Council staff responsible for parks and gardens. The hanging baskets in the main street, the centre plots and magnificent plantings in the park were not only tasteful and co-ordinated but beautifully tended.
I especially appreciated the delphiniums.

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Friday, March 7th, 2008

Lords and ladies How to grow

Graham Rice offers his expert advice on growing a wintergreen perennial with unexpected habitsHow to Grow homepageGarden gift ideasSome plants have unexpected habits. There are orchids that stay dormant under the soil for years then suddenly emerge to flower; ivy rarely flowers until it reaches the top of whatever it is climbing; and there are perennials which die away in summer and show themselves off in the winter. Summer fresh: Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’One of the most useful of these wintergreen perennials is the Italian lords and ladies, whose prettily patterned foliage looks fresh and vibrant all winter - then completely disappears.With its grand common name, and a more prosaic Latin name, Arum italicum brings a little summer freshness to the winter garden. Its leaves are glossy, often vivid green, and arrowhead-shaped. Measuring 7-30cm (3-12in) long, they are, in the best forms, boldly patterned in silvery white along the veins. Carried on stems of up to 40cm (16in), this long-lasting foliage emerges from its crowded rhizomes in autumn to make a bold and elegant clump, shining in the winter sun. It takes severe frost and even snow in its stride and still sparkles in spring.The foliage dies away in late spring or early summer, leaving space for summer flowers. But either while still fresh, or as it withers, the flowers emerge. Similar to those of our native woodland lords and ladies, or cuckoo pint, Arum maculatum, the pale green cowl (technically, the spathe) partially wraps around the creamy vertical club (the spadix). They are intriguing rather than flamboyant but are followed by brilliant clusters of scarlet or orange-red berries which may continue to shine until the new leaves emerge in autumn. Seedlings may pop up around the garden as birds disseminate the berries.But it is at this time of year that the bright winter foliage is so valuable. And, as a result of our increasing interest in cheerful winter garden colour, new varieties are appearing. But the old favourite ‘Marmoratum’, sometimes wrongly known as ‘Pictum’, is still the most widely grown. Its rich green leaves feature white or silvery white veins but some plants are marked more brightly than others. So better to choose ‘White Winter’, one of the neater forms, but with large leaves brilliantly - and dependably - white along the veins.Even smaller is ‘Tiny’, rarely reaching more than 15cm (6in) in height, so especially good with dwarf bulbs. The leaves of ‘Spotted Jack’ are peppered with bold black spots, although the veins are softer in tone. Recently an intriguing variegated form has appeared: ‘Miss Jannay Hall’ is irregularly speckled in gold but with no silver veins - and the spathe is almost pure white.There are also a few which seem to be hybrids between A. italicum, mainly from Southern Europe, Turkey and North Africa, and our native lords and ladies or cuckoo pint, A. maculatum. The result is that plants inherit the broader foliage of our native species yet also retain something of the silvery white colouring in the veins. Sometimes it all becomes rather swirled, like the cr%26egrave;me fraiche stirred into Delia’s Fresh Shelled Pea Soup. In this style, look out for ‘Chameleon’ and ‘Green Marble’.How to growThese are tough and adaptable plants. Happy in the shade of deciduous trees or in a border backed by a north wall, I’ve also seen them thrive in sunnier borders among tall bearded irises, where their winter colour is invaluable and the blooming irises hide their old foliage. In drier, more open situations, the foliage tends to fade away a little sooner than in shadier, more moist places. They need tidying up as the foliage withers. In some situations the self-sown seedlings can become a nuisance, so snipping off the heads of berries when the birds first start to take them may prove wise.The foliage is excellent when cut for winter arrangements and lasts for weeks in water - just don’t deplete your garden plants too much.Good companionsThree groups of plants make excellent companions for these winter foliage arums. Planting them around small and medium-sized evergreen shrubs like pieris, the smaller rhododendrons, fragrant sarcococcas and red-budded skimmias makes attractive long-lasting plant pictures. With other evergreen perennials such as bergenias, heucheras, euphorbias and hellebores, intriguing associations can be created. Spring bulbs including snowdrops, Crocus tommasinanus, chionodoxas, scillas and early dwarf daffodils like ‘Cedric Morris’ will nestle around the foliage to make the winter garden as bright as summer.Where to buyCotswold Garden Flowers (01386 422829; www.cgf.net).Avondale Nursery (024 7667 3662; www.avondalenursery.co.uk; no mail order).Reader offerTelegraph Gardening readers can buy 10 Arum italicum for %26pound;8.95 or 20 for %26pound;17.90. Those buying 20 will get a further 10 free. Send orders to Telegraph Garden, Dept TL716, 452 Chester Road, Old Trafford, Manchester M16 9HL. Make cheques/postal orders payable to Telegraph Garden or call 0161 848 1106 for debit/credit card orders. Quote ref. TL716 when ordering; 6-8cm (2.5-3in) rhizomes supplied. Delivery within 28 days. We are unable to dispatch to the Republic of Ireland or the Channel Islands.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Lords and ladies How to grow

Graham Rice offers his expert advice on growing a wintergreen perennial with unexpected habitsHow to Grow homepageGarden gift ideasSome plants have unexpected habits. There are orchids that stay dormant under the soil for years then suddenly emerge to flower; ivy rarely flowers until it reaches the top of whatever it is climbing; and there are perennials which die away in summer and show themselves off in the winter. Summer fresh: Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’One of the most useful of these wintergreen perennials is the Italian lords and ladies, whose prettily patterned foliage looks fresh and vibrant all winter - then completely disappears.With its grand common name, and a more prosaic Latin name, Arum italicum brings a little summer freshness to the winter garden. Its leaves are glossy, often vivid green, and arrowhead-shaped. Measuring 7-30cm (3-12in) long, they are, in the best forms, boldly patterned in silvery white along the veins. Carried on stems of up to 40cm (16in), this long-lasting foliage emerges from its crowded rhizomes in autumn to make a bold and elegant clump, shining in the winter sun. It takes severe frost and even snow in its stride and still sparkles in spring.The foliage dies away in late spring or early summer, leaving space for summer flowers. But either while still fresh, or as it withers, the flowers emerge. Similar to those of our native woodland lords and ladies, or cuckoo pint, Arum maculatum, the pale green cowl (technically, the spathe) partially wraps around the creamy vertical club (the spadix). They are intriguing rather than flamboyant but are followed by brilliant clusters of scarlet or orange-red berries which may continue to shine until the new leaves emerge in autumn. Seedlings may pop up around the garden as birds disseminate the berries.But it is at this time of year that the bright winter foliage is so valuable. And, as a result of our increasing interest in cheerful winter garden colour, new varieties are appearing. But the old favourite ‘Marmoratum’, sometimes wrongly known as ‘Pictum’, is still the most widely grown. Its rich green leaves feature white or silvery white veins but some plants are marked more brightly than others. So better to choose ‘White Winter’, one of the neater forms, but with large leaves brilliantly - and dependably - white along the veins.Even smaller is ‘Tiny’, rarely reaching more than 15cm (6in) in height, so especially good with dwarf bulbs. The leaves of ‘Spotted Jack’ are peppered with bold black spots, although the veins are softer in tone. Recently an intriguing variegated form has appeared: ‘Miss Jannay Hall’ is irregularly speckled in gold but with no silver veins - and the spathe is almost pure white.There are also a few which seem to be hybrids between A. italicum, mainly from Southern Europe, Turkey and North Africa, and our native lords and ladies or cuckoo pint, A. maculatum. The result is that plants inherit the broader foliage of our native species yet also retain something of the silvery white colouring in the veins. Sometimes it all becomes rather swirled, like the cr%26egrave;me fraiche stirred into Delia’s Fresh Shelled Pea Soup. In this style, look out for ‘Chameleon’ and ‘Green Marble’.How to growThese are tough and adaptable plants. Happy in the shade of deciduous trees or in a border backed by a north wall, I’ve also seen them thrive in sunnier borders among tall bearded irises, where their winter colour is invaluable and the blooming irises hide their old foliage. In drier, more open situations, the foliage tends to fade away a little sooner than in shadier, more moist places. They need tidying up as the foliage withers. In some situations the self-sown seedlings can become a nuisance, so snipping off the heads of berries when the birds first start to take them may prove wise.The foliage is excellent when cut for winter arrangements and lasts for weeks in water - just don’t deplete your garden plants too much.Good companionsThree groups of plants make excellent companions for these winter foliage arums. Planting them around small and medium-sized evergreen shrubs like pieris, the smaller rhododendrons, fragrant sarcococcas and red-budded skimmias makes attractive long-lasting plant pictures. With other evergreen perennials such as bergenias, heucheras, euphorbias and hellebores, intriguing associations can be created. Spring bulbs including snowdrops, Crocus tommasinanus, chionodoxas, scillas and early dwarf daffodils like ‘Cedric Morris’ will nestle around the foliage to make the winter garden as bright as summer.Where to buyCotswold Garden Flowers (01386 422829; www.cgf.net).Avondale Nursery (024 7667 3662; www.avondalenursery.co.uk; no mail order).Reader offerTelegraph Gardening readers can buy 10 Arum italicum for %26pound;8.95 or 20 for %26pound;17.90. Those buying 20 will get a further 10 free. Send orders to Telegraph Garden, Dept TL716, 452 Chester Road, Old Trafford, Manchester M16 9HL. Make cheques/postal orders payable to Telegraph Garden or call 0161 848 1106 for debit/credit card orders. Quote ref. TL716 when ordering; 6-8cm (2.5-3in) rhizomes supplied. Delivery within 28 days. We are unable to dispatch to the Republic of Ireland or the Channel Islands.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

RHS advice for the garden

What to do this week to keep your garden in shape. Advice compiled by the RHSMore advice in our Gardeners’ ForumOrganic Gardening homepageCutting back ornamental grassesCut from their base the bleached flower stalks of grasses left over winter. Deciduous grasses such as Stipa tenuissima and miscanthus should be cut back entirely. Evergreen grasses such as pampas and Festuca glauca need only their flowering stalks cut. Leave pennisetum until April, as it is cold-sensitive. Do not cut back sedges such as carex and luzula. Simply remove brown tips, flowers or seed pods. Lift, divide and transplant grasses and sedges. Sweet peasSow sweet peas now or buy trays of ready-sown seedlings.Separate out any very dark or wrinkled seeds as they can be harder to germinate. Sow in a cool room or greenhouse, maintaining a temperature of 18C (64F) until germination. Use good seed compost with a low fertiliser content. Sow either into wide, shallow “pan” pots, pricking out seedlings into 6cm (2.5in) pots once they reach 3.5cm (1.5in) tall, or sow individually into rootrainers (www.rootrainers.co.uk) or grow tubes (www.eaglenursery.co.uk).After germination, reduce the temperature to 15C (59F). Pinch out the growing tips just above the first pair of true leaves to encourage bushy, robust growth.Pot on into 8cm (3in) pots as plants mature, and harden off gradually. Plant out in late spring, into fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny position. Sowing broad beans DSow broad beans into a well-dug area of fertile loam or clay soil pre-warmed by covering with fleece or polythene. Broad beans can suffer on light soils unless frequently irrigated. Good drainage and sun are required. Dwarf cultivars that require no support, such as ‘The Sutton’, can be grown in containers or beds. Larger cultivars with longer pods include ‘Witkiem Manita’, ‘Topic’ and ‘Meteor’. Sow in drills 5cm (2in) deep, leaving 15cm (6in) between each seed (dwarf types) or 20cm (large types). Double rows are best. Allow 20cm (8in) between rows, and 60cm (2ft) between each pair of double rows. Drive stout stakes into the ground every 1.5m (5ft) along the double row, and run a string between them 30cm (1ft) above the ground. Add additional lines 30cm (1ft) and 60cm (2ft) above the first. Cover new sowings with tunnel cloches.Compiled by the RHS Horticultural Advisory Service (www.rhs.org.uk)

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Sow and grow with pots and modules

With spring in the air it’s time to start sowing seeds. Make life easier for yourself with the latest pots and modules, says Jean VernonElspeth Thompson on the pleasure of pots Coir values Go green this season with coir-based pots from Green Gardener (01603 715096; www.greengardener.co.uk). Coir is a renewable resource and spent pots and trays simply rot down on the compost heap or in the soil. These pots are perfect for greenhouse vegetables, fuchsias, geraniums, dahlias and more. Use in the normal way, but instead of tipping out the plant when it’s time to pot on, simply plant the whole pot in the ground. This avoids disturbing young roots and recycles the pot, rather than adding it to landfill. Choose from mini (8cm), midi (10.5cm) or maxi (17cm) pots, from %26pound;10.Brought to book For serious vegetable growers, when it comes to growing from seed, not much compares with Rootrainers. The new Compact Rootrainers pack from Ronaash (01573 225757; www.ronaash.co.uk) takes everything that is successful about this tried-and-tested method and makes it accessibleto all. The pack, which fits on the windowsill, contains separate books of rootrainers that slot into the Compact Rapid Drip Tray. Each of the 20 cells is grooved to encourage healthy roots to grow down so that when plants are transplanted they establish quickly. Each pack also contains a propagating lid. The cost is %26pound;6.99 plus %26pound;1 for a drip tray, plus %26pound;3.50 p%26amp;p.Hot bots When growing seeds early in the season, a little bottom heat can make all the difference. This neat windowsill propagator from Garland (01384 278256; www.garlandproducts.com) allows you to remove a tray of seedlings easily as soon as they start to sprout. This gives you the flexibility to create a conveyor-belt system for raising a number of different seed varieties. The pack includes seven mini vented propagators with individual seed trays to create a complete seed-raising kit. About %26pound;31 from good garden centres or mail order from stockists named on Garland’s website.Rice is nice Here’s another green idea: rice husk pots (4) from Kindtoo (0845 862 3888; www.kindtoo.com). Rice husks are a renewable resource and a food-industry waste product that is normally burned. So, by using these products you not only reduce your own reliance on plastic pots, you also cut down on pollutants being released to the air. What’s more, these are substantial flowerpots that are nice enough to use indoors. The finish resembles textured Bakelite, they are resistant to freeze/thaw cycles and last up to five years, so can be reused. Available in a choice of colours and three sizes, from 69p to %26pound;3.49. From selected stockists; telephone for details.Plants en masse Plantpak (01621 745500; www.desch-plantpak.co.uk) has a huge array of useful plant modules, seed tray inserts and other pots for sowing and growing seeds. The new Jumbo Plug Trays are roomy enough for developing plants and very robust so can be used again and again. One Jumbo tray houses 35 plants that, once established, are easy to remove. It is ideal for potting up vegetables and basket plants. The holes in the base make these trays particularly suitable for use with capillary matting. Available from garden centres, %26pound;5.99.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Gardening for children - Molly’s patch (Part 3)

It’s time for Sarah Raven and daughter Molly to turn the vegetable patch into a reality

Sarah Raven: Molly’s patch - Part 1 | Part 2Elspeth Thompson: Crops the kids will love to grow

Things are really happening in Molly’s area of the greenhouse, with seedlings popping up on a daily basis in the pots and trays we’ve sown.

Indian summer: Making a birchwood tepee

To encourage things to come through as quickly as possible, everything is sitting on the heated bench, covered with sheets of newspaper or with split open, empty compost bags. This keeps the warmth and moisture in, so the seeds are germinating quickly.

Uncovering them, morning and night, to see what’s come up in the hours in between is one of my favourite occupations, and I’m trying to get Molly addicted too.

All her seedlings - broccoli, carrots, chillis, tomatoes, lettuce, parsley, basil, coriander, French beans and cucumbers - are quick and easy to grow and bringing them all to life is a hugely rewarding process.

As soon as they have unfurled from their seed case, it’s vital that everything is uncovered and grown on in full light. Left warm, moist and in the dark, they’ll grow at a lightning rate, with stems as thin as a thread - which is a disaster.

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Thursday, March 6th, 2008