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Gardening with native plants - that is, with species that grew here before the first settlers arrived from Europe - has always had its supporters, Landscaping Services but it’s a trend that’s getting stronger as part of the eco-friendly movement. Advocates argue that because native species have adapted to local conditions, they’re easier to grow, less likely to invade other parts of the garden, and require less water, pesticides and fertilizers. They also maintain that native plants are the best choice to attract birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

Does this mean we should dig up our non-native perennials and shrubs and replace them with ferns, trilliums, and maples? Not according to two Ottawa garden experts. They say that while native plants do offer advantages, the most practical approach — and sometimes the most eco-friendly — is to integrate them with non-native species, finding the best location for each plant.

“There are a lot of generalizations about native plants, but these aren’t always true,” says Eva Schmitz, owner of Artistic Landscape Design. Take the statement that native plants are hardier. “A species from a country like Russia may be just as hardy as a Canadian native, perhaps hardier,” she says. Nor are native plants necessarily less invasive.

“Some natives spread very quickly,” says Adele Courville, design centre manager at Rockcliffe Landscaping. “An aggressive, self-seeding native may be fine for a woodland area, but not for an urban garden. You can try to stop a plant from spreading by creating a barrier below the soil surface, but in time, it will over-root and won’t survive.” While she believes that native plants are the best for wildlife,

Ms. Schmitz considers this to be a generalization, too. “Birds and bees are attracted by colour and shape. They don’t avoid a plant because it’s originally from Europe or Asia.”

Rather than focusing on whether it’s native or not, both women stress the importance of picking plants that will suit their location in the garden. How well any plant does, they say, depends on whether you have the light, moisture, soil and other conditions it needs. Native white spruce, for example, flourishes

in the forest, but can’t take city pollution; red lobelia thrives in water, but will die in a dry location. “Many native Ontario plants grow in woodlands with rich,

organic soil and plenty of water and shade,” Ms. Courville notes. “They won’t succeed in dry, full sun environment.You must provide similar conditions or a native species can wind up being high maintenance.”

In the wrong space, natives may be as susceptible to disease as other plants. “If you have a native, upright phlox in an area with poor circulation, it will get mildew,” Eva Schmitz says. “Again, it’s about putting the right plant in the right location and keeping it healthy. That’s also the best way to eliminate the use of toxins such as pesticides. I don’t spray any plant.”

Besides being a practical solution for many gardens, integrating native plants with other species boosts can boost variety and visual appeal. Natives can be straggly and inconspicous-looking, and depending on the plant, may take as long as five years to bloom. “Natives that have been hybridized often provide bigger blooms,” Ms. Schmitz observes. “They may also be taller, more compact, and have stronger stems and healthier leaves. In fact, native plants can be made richer with hybridized versions.”

Tags: amp, artistic landscape, birds and bees, blooms, courville, eva schmitz, ferns, garden experts, generalization, generalizations, landscape, Landscape Design, Landscaping, landscaping service, Landscaping Services, maples, native perennials, native plants, perennials, plants, rta, Services, shrub, shrubs, soil, soil surface, trilliums, urban garden, woodland area
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Great condo gardens are built from inspiration. Before the perspiration begins, inspiration sparks the imagination and drives the condo garden design.Equipment Landscaping Insight and ideas spring from many sources: glossy books and magazines, neighbouring condo gardens as well as show gardens at home and garden shows.

Knowing just how important ideas, innovation and inspiration are to GTA’s residents, the Toronto Star has sponsored the dream gardens at the National Home Show (Exhibition Place, daily until April 13). Arnis Budrevics (director and principal architect of Alexander Budrevics & Associates) along with 16-featured landscapers designed and built the gardens – 42,000-square-feet with flowers, foliage, accessories and well-designed spaces.

“I’m a second-generation landscape architect from the same firm that has been looking after the National Home Show for over 40 years,” Budrevics says. “Alexander, my father, ran the home show over the last 35 years and I’ve actively co-ordinated the dream gardens for the last five years.”

Each garden’s space is about 1,000 square feet, specifically transferable to small urban gardens.

“If you want to reduce it further to make it a condominium garden,” Budrevics says, “remember the entire show is built on a hard concrete slab. Therefore everything you see can be adapted to your garden because it’s already manufactured and it’s not planted in-ground.

“The show gardens serve as inspiration, in its entirety or just parts of it,” Budrevics explains. “Inspiration could come from a unique fountain, a pot, plants or the arrangement of furniture.”

“The garden should be a reflection of your lifestyle and interests,” Budrevics says. “A successful garden is one which you created yourself, Equipment Landscaping because it is an extension of your own life. It has to be your design, not something that someone is going to sell you, because pretty soon you will either modify it or you won’t use it since it isn’t you.”

Since balconies, courtyards and terraces can be seen from inside the condo, it looks better if a similar style and materials are used in both spaces. To create a seamless transition, take decorating cues from the inside, such as colours and textures, and use it outdoors. The outdoor space not only becomes an extension of your living space, but it is also a place that reflects your taste, personality and lifestyle.

Memory is tricky, and with the hustle and bustle of the show, details become fuzzy later on. So, before you go, pop a few things into your bag: a rough sketch of your garden (outlining shape and size), a notebook, a tape measure and a camera.

Take photos of the show gardens or objects that spark your imagination. Use the tape measure to objectively measure things. Once at home,Equipment Landscaping  see how the images translate into your outdoor space. Remember, with condo gardens it’s all about scale. Smaller spaces need smaller scaled furniture and plants. Measure to see if the “inspiration” will fit into your space.

Tags: amp, Equipment Landscaping, exhibition, landscape, landscape architect, landscaper, landscapers, Landscaping, lifestyle, plants, rta, square feet, urban garden
0

• Zoofari event peppered with Cajun flavor
• Zip off to Mexico for cruise filled with fun food
• Youths in highspeed car chases Power cut to island houses
• Youthbuild Gives Young Adults Constructive Future Landscaping Software
• Youth and fatigue can make for deadly driving
• Your US Immigration Questions Answered
• Your Home Business and Your Kids
• Your Guide To Cleaning Fireplaces
• Your First Apartment
• Your Complete Attention is a Wonderful Gift to Your Kids

oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

Tags: amp, drought, grass, grasses, greens, perennials, plants, shrub, shrubs, soil, trees and shrubs, urban garden
0

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oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

Tags: amp, drought, grass, grasses, greens, perennials, plants, shrub, shrubs, soil, trees and shrubs, urban garden
0

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• Youth and fatigue can make for deadly driving
• Yourself Equipment Landscaping
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• Young Southlanders get spot on team
• Young Southlander sets national record wins gold
• Young gun on the fast track
• Young fans get chance to wave chequered flag

oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

Tags: amp, drought, grass, grasses, greens, perennials, plants, shrub, shrubs, soil, trees and shrubs, urban garden
0

• Zero Interest Offers A Great Deal For Kubota Minis
• Youths in highspeed car chases Power cut to island houses
• Youth and old heads in quality field
• Youth and fatigue can make for deadly driving
• Yourself Equipment Landscaping
• Youre Credit Report During a Divorce What to Avoid
• Young Southlanders get spot on team
• Young Southlander sets national record wins gold
• Young gun on the fast track
• Young fans get chance to wave chequered flag

oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

Tags: amp, drought, grass, grasses, greens, perennials, plants, shrub, shrubs, soil, trees and shrubs, urban garden
0

• Zero Interest Offers A Great Deal For Kubota Minis
• Youths in highspeed car chases Power cut to island houses
• Youth and old heads in quality field
• Youth and fatigue can make for deadly driving
• Yourself Equipment Landscaping
• Youre Credit Report During a Divorce What to Avoid
• Young Southlanders get spot on team
• Young Southlander sets national record wins gold
• Young gun on the fast track
• Young fans get chance to wave chequered flag

oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

Tags: amp, drought, grass, grasses, greens, perennials, plants, shrub, shrubs, soil, trees and shrubs, urban garden
0

• Zero Interest Offers A Great Deal For Kubota Minis
• Youths in highspeed car chases Power cut to island houses
• Youth and old heads in quality field
• Youth and fatigue can make for deadly driving
• Yourself Equipment Landscaping
• Youre Credit Report During a Divorce What to Avoid
• Young Southlanders get spot on team
• Young Southlander sets national record wins gold
• Young gun on the fast track
• Young fans get chance to wave chequered flag

oody plants cumulatively build up a root system over many years, so one flood can destroy an entire root structure. Herbaceous perennials, however, renew a large part of their root system annually, so they can recover. Perennials also have shallow root systems so can flourish in situations with a high water table.

advertisement

So, a good start is to concentrate on perennials. Most, including those such as hardy geraniums and autumn-flowering asters that do not normally live in wet environments, can cope well with flooding.

The next step is to recognise those perennials that will positively relish your conditions. As a general rule, these are plants with big, lush green leaves. Rodgersias, rheum (ornamental rhubarb) and hostas are well-known moisture lovers. Conversely, avoid anything with small, leathery or grey leaves. These are generally plants from drought-prone habitats that react badly to waterlogging.

A garden dominated by wetland perennials should be a celebration of luxuriant foliage: reed-like miscanthus grasses, the feathery heads of queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra and its relatives), the bobble-heads of newly fashionable sanguisorbas, which also have gorgeous divided foliage, the mid-summer spikes of purple loosestrifes (lythrum species).

There is also a good practical reason to concentrate on perennials if it is winter flooding rather than wet soil that is the problem. Floods bring debris and mud, which gets caught up in the twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. In a garden is dominated by perennials these can easily be cut back and reduce opportunities for such material to lodge.

Willows and dogwoods are well known for thriving in wet conditions, but what about other trees and shrubs? Native oak and ash do well, as does birch if a high water table is the main issue, rather than flooding. There are plenty of others.

Among the more available trees are the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), red maple (Acer rubrum) and liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua). The latter two are spectacular in autumn. There are two exceptional deciduous conifers: swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Metasequoia glyptostroboides. Both are narrow and light enough not to overwhelm the smaller or urban garden.

Among shrubs, amelanchiers and the closely related aronias are both naturally wetland species, with cream flowers in spring and first-class autumn colour. Also good are elders (sambucus species), spiraeas, and many deciduous viburnums.

When planting, even wetland tree and shrub species should be planted on mounds. Providing extra breathing space will help young and damaged roots to establish; the general rule is two barrowloads of soil heaped and gently firmed.

Evergreens tend to be plants of drier habitats, and so rarely do well on wet soils; winter flooding will also cake their leaves in mud. Also to be avoided are “sub-shrubs”: compact-growing twiggy species with small leaves, almost all of which are plants of dry or exposed environments such as heathers, hebes, lavenders. Not only do they rot in the wet, but their branches will trap all sorts of flood-borne debris.

Many of the trees and shrubs that flourish in the wet grow too large for smaller gardens. They can, however, be kept within bounds by coppicing - cutting back to the base every year or every few years, so that their maximum height never exceeds three metres. This makes willows produce plenty of the new growth which is often colourful in the winter.

Many other species are encouraged to produce larger than normal foliage, creating an atmosphere of exotic luxuriance. The leaves of the tulip tree, the poplar Populus lasiocarpa, wing-nut (pterocarya species) and the large-leaved willow Salix magnifica are particularly spectacular.

In my last garden this willow turned out to be the most talked about plant of all, an upright-growing clump of grey, almost tropical-looking foliage.

Waterlogging or flooding does not mean you have to give up on having a beautiful garden. But it does mean you have to think about the plants you choose. Fortunately nature’s wetland habitats have given us many vigorous, easy to grow and attractive plants. Go for the lush, luxuriant look and make the most of a wetland garden.

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Denver Urban Gardens is accepting applications for its Free Seeds and Transplants Program. The program provides complimentary seeds and plants, including tomatoes, peppers, onions, broccoli, squash, lettuce, corn, carrots and herbs to Denver residents who meet low- to moderate-income guidelines. Applications are due Feb. 4; plants are delivered to Denver Urban Gardens centers in March. Garden plots also are available in more than 70 community gardens throughout the city. Details at 303-292-9900 or dug.org.

Electric colors and a cool bowling-ball shape make the mStation Stereo Orb stand out among the myriad new iPod and MP3 speakers. The Orb works as an iPod docking station, comes with a remote control, has a dedicated subwoofer and won design-industry accolades for its sleek look. Available in blue, red, pink, green, silver, black and white for $129.95 at mstation.com.

Paper appeal

Wally and the Beav would feel right at home with the latest wallpaper looks. According to trend watchers with the Wallcoverings Association, the next wave in hot looks for walls features vintage patterns in fresh, contemporary hues. Hollywood set designer Amy Wells is a fan. She helps frame the look of the 1960s- era TV series “Mad Men” on AMC, and told the Los Angeles Times that her rooms reflect “the act of interpreting the past through the present.” Look for more wallpaper trend information, sources and design tips at wallcoverings.org.

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Peer over the fences of gardens in Britain and you will soon realise that many
fall into one of four styles: cottage, formal, jungle and contemporary. The
first two appeal to the romantics among us, and go well with older housing
stock; the strong lines of jungle and contemporary styles suit modern urban
living. A strength of all four is that their design rules can be applied to
any garden, large or small. If you have lots of space, don%26rsquo;t confine
yourself to one style, but divide it into themed %26ldquo;rooms%26rdquo;.

The five-day RHS Chelsea Flower Show, opening on May 22, is great for
inspiration. Visit www.rhs.org.uk for tickets, available for May 24 to 26;
and timesonline.co.uk/chelseaflowershow
for coverage.
FORMAL GARDENS
Let%26rsquo;s start with that quintessentially British design, the formal garden. Our
signature style is typified by organised, well-tended herbaceous borders %26ndash;
either long and straight, or sweeping curves %26ndash; framing a pristine swathe of
velvety lawn. Traditionally, borders were filled with colourful perennials,
but as design rules have evolved, roses and other shrubs have been added
into the mix. Striking features are symmetry and repetition, nowhere more
than in the knot garden %26ndash; a Tudor innovation, with low hedges laid out in
intricate patterns %26ndash; and its grander cousin, the parterre. This is the
garden of our great houses, but its influences have filtered through to the
suburbs. Formal is what we%26rsquo;re good at, and what visitors to our shores
expect to see.
HARD LANDSCAPING
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Background
Cultivate your own style

Get back to your roots
Related Links
Outer vision

Take your lead from the house and its surroundings, and use classic materials.
Choose red brick for paths and walls if that is the dominant material, or
stone, the perfect mellow partner for plants. Use exterior paint colours
that work in our gentle northern European light. Pale greens, putty and
smoky blues have been used for centuries, with good reason: they look
fantastic. Farrow %26amp; Ball (01202 876141, www.farrow-ball.
co.uk) has a great selection.

You are trying to achieve a look of informal abundance, but beneath the
insouciance, you need a corset-like framework of hard landscaping and
planting that will soften over time to develop a patina of age. The formal
garden is not low-maintenance. Regular, continual weeding is crucial, as are
staking and deadheading. A large garden requires an army of helpers.
PLANTS
Evergreen hedges of yew, holly or box, topiary and shrubberies are a formal
style%26rsquo;s backbone and ensure the garden looks great during winter, when
perennials have been cut back.

Bulbs help to sustain interest all year round. Let crocuses, snowdrops and
fritillaries colonise grassy areas and the ground beneath trees and shrubs
in early spring; plant out hundreds of tulip bulbs in autumn to flower in
late spring; pepper borders with alliums, which flower in early summer; and
fill decorative containers with lilies for later in the season.

Use a variety of perennials in borders (see below), but don%26rsquo;t be confused by
%26ldquo;new perennial%26rdquo; planting, a style that has come from Germany and America.
This is looser, and tends to incorporate swathes of a single plant and lots
of grasses.

Roses have broken free from the unhealthy monoculture of the formal rose
garden and taken their place in the mixed border. Climbers and ramblers
should adorn every available wall, balustrade and pergola, with clematis
clambering through the stems.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
English gardeners, especially, are judged by the state of their lawn. Keep
yours immaculate and the whole garden will look groomed. Don%26rsquo;t be afraid of
colour. While formal gardens can have elegant single-shade themes %26ndash; the
white garden at Sissinghurst, in Kent, say, or Prince Charles%26rsquo;s
black-and-white scheme at Highgrove (though no plant is truly black) %26ndash; most
are a riot of colour.

The traditional British herbaceous border is highly organised. Use plants in
threes or fives to create a patchwork of contrasting colour, shape and
texture, with the taller plants at the back and shorter ones at the front.
Repetition works well: use the same plant or group of plants to punctuate a
border.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Chris Beardshaw won a gold medal for his Chelsea debut in 1999, and last year
the people%26rsquo;s choice award and another gold medal. His garden, Celebrating
100 Years of Hidcote Manor, is at site MA19 at this year%26rsquo;s RHS Chelsea
Flower Show. He recommends the following: For every straight line or path,
you have to have a focal point %26ndash; such as a piece of sculpture, water feature
or specimen plant %26ndash; to draw you along it. Use traditional English garden
plants, such as old English roses, geraniums, Iris germanica,
lavender and aquilegias. They perform well and thrive in fickle British
weather. Gardens should tempt you outside all year. Visit a nursery every
couple of weeks to see which plants are in flower, so you can plan swathes
or drifts for a lasting display.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire (01386 438333, www.nationaltrust.org.uk);
Levens Hall, Cumbria (015395 60321, www.levenshall.co.uk);
Castle and Gardens of Mey, Thurso, Highland (01847 851473, www.castleofmey.org.uk). CONTEMPORARYGARDENS
In designing a truly contemporary garden, there need be no limit to the scope
of your imagination. Designers have really been pushing the boundaries in
recent years, and ideas that once seemed shocking are now filtering through
to the mainstream. The landscaping should have hard edges and strongly
defined geometry. Clean, straight lines or circles with a purpose, rather
than meandering curves, can bring an unexpected sense of calm to even the
most aggressively minimalist garden.
HARD LANDSCAPING
Be bold. Sleek galvanised steel, zinc and rusted iron will look at home in an
urban garden, and the shock of seeing them in a rural context will give your
garden real bite.

Don%26rsquo;t use too many conflicting landscaping materials, and keep the lines pure,
simple and uncluttered. Don%26rsquo;t, for example, add a few extra terracotta pots
when everything else is slate and stone %26ndash; in a modern design, the beautiful,
understated container is king.

Getting the scale of decorative accessories right is also crucial. Play with
both size and scale: two or three simple outsized containers, whether
planted up or not, will make a punchy statement. Raised beds, which add
interest by introducing planting on different levels, are another option.
PLANTS
Gardening programmes are quick to encourage us to ditch the lawn in small,
modern plots. But if you love the look and feel of grass under your feet,
you don%26rsquo;t mind getting the lawn mower out and your garden gets plenty of
sun, I think there is no better backdrop for the rest of your planting. Keep
the lawn shape simple, and surround it with stone, slate or concrete slabs
set at the same height. This will enable the mower to glide over the edges
and keep the lawn looking fresh and sharp.

A backbone of evergreen structural plants can be softened by perennial
grasses. The most dramatic is bamboo; varieties such as the black-stemmed Phyllostachys
nigra have become stalwarts of contemporary designs. They add height,
and the gentle sway and rustle of grass leaves in the wind looks and sounds
lovely.

Planned well, a contemporary style can be the ideal low-maintenance option for
time-poor gardeners. Stick to a restricted palette of evergreen plants that
will look good all year with minimal intervention, and ring the seasonal
changes with colourful bulbs, such as the orange Tulipa %26lsquo;Ballerina%26rsquo;,
and annuals. Simple white double busy lizzies, for instance, are low-growing
and shade-tolerant, and look clean and fresh en masse.

Minimalism in contemporary garden design does not rule out some variety:
perennials and grasses, divided into big blocks of each plant, can enhance a
modern feel.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Reduce the number and range of plants to a select few, then repeat them in
different places around the garden. Tones of green should predominate,
heightened by spots of other colours, when selecting your flowers and
materials. Whether you choose bright tones %26ndash; oranges, pinks and yellows %26ndash; or
sultry shades such as purples and dark reds, keep to a few complementary or
contrasting colours.

The best contemporary gardens not only look good, but function brilliantly. Be
eco-aware at the planning stage and it will be easy to incorporate
drought-tolerant plants, solar panels and seep-hose watering systems.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Andy Sturgeon, whose contemporary designs have won him gold medals at Chelsea
for two years running, and whose Cancer Research UK garden is positioned at
MA20 in this year%26rsquo;s show, says: Use clean lines and bold shapes, putting an
emphasis on form, texture and colour. You don%26rsquo;t have to use modern
materials, such as glass and metal. Traditional elements such as wood and
stone can also work. They should look crisp, with sharp lines and clean
edges. Structures and hard surfaces are paramount, and should be used as a
framework on which to hang the planting. Don%26rsquo;t clutter the garden. A single
striking sculpture or a row of matching pots can be dramatic. Use a
restricted colour palette for plants and materials to give the garden
cohesion and simplicity.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
The Eden Project (01726 811911, www.edenproject.co.uk); Governor%26rsquo;s Garden,
Portland Castle, near Weymouth, Dorset (01305 820539, www.english-heritage.
org.uk); Marks Hall, Coggeshall, Essex (01376 563796, www.markshall.org.uk). COTTAGE GARDENS
Romantic and chocolate-box pretty, cottage gardens hold a special place in the
public imagination, even if they represent a somewhat idealised
representation of country life. It is a style that can be adapted to most
smaller gardens, whether you have a genuine period country cottage or a
new-build house on an estate. Wherever it is, the best cottage garden should
be productive and include edible plants.
HARD LANDSCAPING
Choose materials that are in keeping with your plot%26rsquo;s style and scale. Gravel
works well for paths, and, if you live in the Cotswolds or the Peak
District, make the most of traditional dry-stone walling.

Avoid becoming overly grand. A cottage garden is not really the place for
classical urns and large sculptures. It is, however, the setting in which to
indulge your taste for what might look twee elsewhere %26ndash; small birdbaths and
sundials, a distressed, painted bird-feeder or a dovecote on a pole, even
figures of ducks and chicks.

Keep water features small and natural-looking. Install a pond, allow it to
become slightly overgrown %26ndash; though take care not to let the liner show at
the edge %26ndash; and it will soon attract a wide range of fascinating wildlife.
PLANTS
The image you%26rsquo;re aiming for is roses round the door and borders dotted with
hollyhocks, daisies and hardy geraniums %26ndash; the ground-covering Geranium
%26lsquo;Johnson%26rsquo;s Blue%26rsquo; is particularly popular. Perennials tend to dominate in
cottage-garden schemes, but flowering shrubs such as buddleia will add
structure and attract butterflies. Cottage gardens should also be
productive, so mix in visually attractive %26ndash; and delicious %26ndash; fruit and veg.

Box topiary works well, and even novelty shapes, such as animals and birds,
seem charming rather than naff. Tall, spire-like plants add a vertical
change from the frothiness of the border. Delphiniums and verbascums
flourish in full sun; foxgloves prefer dappled shade.
A cottage garden is not complete without some sweet-smelling blooms. Include
plenty of fragrant plants such as night-scented stocks, lavender and pinks
in the corners where you tend to linger or sit.
SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Go for curved flower beds rather than straight lines and geometric shapes. The
effect should be blowsy and overflowing. In borders, pack the plants in
tightly for an abundant look.

You shouldn%26rsquo;t be able to see the soil between the plants, but they can be
allowed to spill over paths. Use every plane. Walls, fences, even shed roofs
should be laden with climbers such as honeysuckle and rambling roses;
introduce height in borders with rustic tripods and other plant supports,
and let sweet peas and clematis scramble through them. Encourage
self-seeding. Catch seeds by tying paper bags over the flowerheads; you can
then plant them where you want. Allow Alchemilla mollis, Verbena
bonariensis and Welsh or opium poppies to nestle in paving cracks and at
the edges of gravel paths.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Geoffrey Whiten has won six gold medals at Chelsea. His Brett Landscaping
Garden, to be found at RHW40 in this year%26rsquo;s show, takes the theme of a
farmworker%26rsquo;s plot. He says: Don%26rsquo;t overplan: the garden will evolve. Buy a
cheap garden shed and, if it is strong enough, put old slates or tiles on
the roof. Recycle. Line old wooden boxes with polythene, for example, and
use as planters
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Chiffchaffs, Bourton, Dorset (01747 840841); Alfriston Clergy House, East
Sussex (01323 870001, www.nationaltrust.org.uk)
.JUNGLE GARDENS
Whether it is a link with our colonial past, or simply a desire to trade our
unpredictable weather for something more exotic, the jungle-style garden is
increasingly popular with the great British public.

Typified by lots of lush tropical foliage, an abundance of structural,
architectural plants and bright flower colour, it%26rsquo;s a look that works best
in a sunny, sheltered area, but some elements can be incorporated into
gardens pretty much anywhere if you give a bit of rudimentary frost
protection to the more tender plants: lift dahlias and cannas, for instance,
and store them over winter; and wrap the stems of bananas with fleece.
HARD LANDSCAPING
A jungle garden relies largely on the way you structure your planting, so hard
landscaping plays a supporting role. It can be formal or informal, with
lawns or paving. Plant bold and abundant foliage to attract attention.

Make use of the warm tones of natural timber. Teak steamer chairs and a decked
floor create just the right feel %26ndash; though be sure that whatever you buy is
made of timber from sustainable sources. Use materials that reflect and
complement the tones of the flowers and foliage. Decorative elements in
bronze and beaten copper would be beautiful.
PLANTS
The upper-storey planting is a vital element. Towering plants set the scene,
give a sense of abundance and enclosure, and can block out neighbouring
eyesores. In small gardens use tall palms (the Chusan palm, Trachycarpus
fortunei, is the hardiest) and bananas (Musa basjoo is the most
reliable in this country). If you have room you could include trees with
golden or acid-green foliage, such as Robinia pseudoacacia %26lsquo;Frisia%26rsquo;
or Gleditsia triacanthos %26lsquo;Sunburst%26rsquo;.

To achieve a sense of lushness and density, bulk up exotic planting with a
background filling of standard evergreen shrubs. The spotted laurel Fatsia
japonica and Choisya ternata are commonly grown and widely
available, but suit the tropical look perfectly.

Grasses, particularly those with bold colouring, such as Hakonechloa macra
%26lsquo;Alboaurea%26rsquo;, or Carex oshimensis %26lsquo;Evergold%26rsquo;, are useful
in borders, while feathery varieties and other plants can provide a spot of
respite amid a sea of solid foliage and flowers. The dark stems and airy
leaves of bronze fennel would be ideal.

Ultimately, the flowers will add the zip that makes this type of garden zing %26ndash;
cannas, crocosmias and red-hot pokers are indispensable.

And don%26rsquo;t forget to add bulbs, corms and tubers for year-round colour. Choose
trumpet-shaped lilies, bright parrot tulips, statuesque crown imperials and
gaudy dahlias that shout: %26ldquo;Look at me.%26rdquo; SPECIALIST NURSERIES AND SUPPLIERS
Exotics: Architectural Plants (01403 891772, www.architecturalplants.com);
The Palm Centre (020 8255 6191, www.thepalmcentre.co.uk).
Topiary: Romantic Garden Nursery (01603 261488, www.romantic-garden-nursery.co.uk).
Terracotta: Italian Terrace (01284 789666,
www.italianterrace.co.uk), Whichford Pottery (01608 684416, www.whichfordpottery.com). Rusted iron plant supports: Room in the Garden (01730 816881, www.roominthegarden.co.uk) SHORT CUTS TO THE LOOK
Think big. This style is not for the timid gardener. It needs plants with
presence, enormous leaves and bright colour. Half measures will produce an
insipid version of the tropical look.

These colours should fall within the %26ldquo;hot%26rdquo; range of the spectrum.

Luminous chartreuse and golden yellows will vie for attention amid orange,
magenta, scarlet and purple. Don%26rsquo;t ignore foliage colour.

The brash, stripy leaves of Canna %26lsquo;Durban%26rsquo; almost outshine the orange
flowers, and the dark-bronze or purple stems and foliage of Dahlia
%26lsquo;Bishop of Llandaff%26rsquo; are key to its popularity.

Texture is as important as colour in a tropical style. Look for large
palm-shaped leaves such as Rodgersia podophylla, and juxtapose them
with slender, strap-like foliage such as phormiums and cordylines. Rough,
nobbly leaves and stems are more interesting when set against something
smooth and shiny.

A summerhouse provides a focal point in abundant borders. Cottage-garden
signatures include honeysuckle over a trellis and paths festooned with
overspilling blooms.
TIPS FROM THE TOP
Mark Browning, winner of a gold medal for his garden at Chelsea last year, and
designer of the Fleming%26rsquo;s and Trailfinders Australian Garden, located at
RHW33 at this year%26rsquo;s show, says: Don%26rsquo;t rely on flowers %26ndash; use foliage to
provide tone and texture. Trees such as silver birch and beech can provide
the canopy for an urban enchanted forest. Underplant beech with heucheras
for romantic ambience. Hard landscaping should complement the planting and
provide a platform from which to enjoy the garden.
GARDENS TO INSPIRE YOU
Tresco Abbey, Isles of Scilly (01720 424108, www.tresco.co.uk);
Lost Gardens of Heligan (01726 845100, www.heligan.com);
Exotic Garden, Norwich (01603 623167, www.exoticgarden.com
).

Tags: amp, annuals, blooms, buddleia, chocola, concrete slabs, containers, drought, fence, fences, focal point, grass, grasses, gravel, greens, Landscaping, landscaping materials, lawns, mainstream, perennials, pergola, plants, poppies, red brick, rta, sculptures, shrub, shrubs, soil, surroundings, tiles, trees and shrubs, urban garden, water feature, water features, yew
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